Bulletins From BA #04

Bulletins From BA #04

31 August 2012

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

Photo Update Alert: www.picasaweb.google.com/rodger.french

"BA Buildings (1)"

So, last week we are walking home after a lovely brunch with colleagues in the 29^th floor apartment of Anne’s boss. Great view, interesting people, excellent chow… all in all, a delightful morning. Naturalmente, it could not last. A large bird, we suspect an opportunistic pigeon, was waiting in the trees. I won’t subject you to a detailed description; suffice it to say that the fowl’s accuracy was unerring and the payload copious. But in the city, where pigeons and people must coexist, this sort of thing will happen.

So, this past Saturday, Anne and I were walking along Avenida del Libertador and decided to stop and take a photo of a statue of Evita Duarte Peron. As we approached, we became aware that we had been splattered yet again with a noxious substance. Naturalmente, I suspected fowl play. (Sorry, but it had to be said.) Fortuitously, a couple behind us was Johnny-on-the-spot offering to help us clean up the gunk. And, if possible, rob us blind.

Here’s the official State Department description: “A common scam is to spray mustard or a similar substance on the tourist from a distance. A pickpocket will then approach the tourist offering to help clean the stain, and while doing so, he or an accomplice robs the victim.” Now, A.J. and I are not a couple of rubes. We’ve made our way through two tours overseas and pay close attention to security briefings. So, we held on to our stuff and walked away. It was a disconcerting experience, but only a hassle, not a tragedy.

[Sidebar: The perpetrators were subsequently apprehended by sharp-eyed members of the Policía Federal Argentina (A.P.F.) and our accounts taken by a young, solicitous, and muy guapo (handsome) policeman named Dominguez. What became of the perps, I cannot say. But Anne and I returned to our apartment, changed clothes, and resolutely sallied forth once more.]

Our destination was El Ateneo Grand Splendid, possibly the most beautiful librería (bookstore) on the planet. Espléndido, indeed. (I’ve posted a few photoz that only begin to it justice.) If you ever come to Buenos Aires, this place should be in your Top 10… maybe Top 5. I plan to return and perhaps, if I learn to read español well enough, purchase a text on la historia del tango.

[Sidebar: At El Ateneo, I acquired a double CD set of orchestral tango music by Osvaldo Pugilese y Su Orquesta. Maestro Pugliese (1905-1995) did not fool around: Grand piano, multiple bandoneons, and acres of strings. Wondrous music, and muy dramático even by Argentine standards.]

Speaking of music, we recently attended a concert, co-sponsored by the Cultural Affairs Office, featuring four pianists - three Americans and one Argentine. The concert was held at the Fortabat Museum, which houses the private art collection of María Amalia Sara Lacroze Reyes Oribe de Fortabat Pourtale, aka Amalita Fortabat (1921-2012), former patron of the arts and richest woman in Argentina. The museum is located on Dique (Dock) 4 in the Puerto Madero area, a huge landscape of reclaimed waterfront that inevitably warrants further investigation.

Capsule Concert Review: The speeches seemed to go on and on, and the seats absolutamente aspirado (sucked), but the musicians presented a varied, entertaining, and extremely well accomplished programme. And, during el intervalo (intermission), we took the opportunity to view some of la colección de arte, which is truly maravillosa. Señora Fortabat did not fool around.

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #03

Bulletins From BA #03

11 August 2012

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

Submitted for your consideration: Some miscellaneous, perchance diverting newsy items, with a “hat tip” (h/t) to a few of our steadfast readers. Disfruten (Enjoy).

This Week in Adult Education… Español lessons are paying off big time. I have recently added the following muy useful phrases to my repertorio: “Perdóneme, mi español es patético.” (Pardon me, my Spanish is pathetic.); “Lo siento, tiene el numero equivocado.” (I’m sorry, you have the wrong number.); y “Por favor, cuidado con la caca de perro.” (Please, watch out for the dog poop.)

Incidentally, I have it on good authority that the choice of “Argentine” vs. “Argentinian” when referring in English to a citizen of Argentina can be a delicate topic. So, in the interest of etymological diplomacy, I consulted several allegedly reputable sources. Though by no means unequivocal, the consensus is that Argentine is the correct demonym (noun) and Argentinian the correct adjectival form. (h/t: Lisa Q.)

Sports Report… The Olympics were not quite as big a deal in Argentina as in Los Estadios Unidos (EE.UU.), but coverage was still extensive, especially for basketball, field hockey, and tennis player Juan Martín Del Potro. But the most impressive athlete I’ve seen here was a young hombre in dark clothing on roller skates delivering a pizza while talking on his cell phone. At night. In the rain. I gave him a 9.5. (Would have been a 10, if he had been wearing sunglasses.)

Breaking News… The American Embassy has been relegated to 2^nd Place in the ongoing “Ugliest Building in Buenos Aires” competition. Your new leader? La Biblioteca Nacional (National Library) de la República Argentina. A building designed in the “brutalist” style. Truly.

Fun Facts About Animals… The carpincho (capybara), source of fine pelts for deluxe fashions (re: Bulletin #02), is the world’s largest rodent. They are gentle, gregarious, semiaquatic herbivores, typically weighing up to 68 kilos (150 lbs.). In Venezuela, carpinchos are harvested for food during Lent, owing to a 16^th century Papal dispensation classifying them as “fish.” Or so the story goes. I think they’re cute and I want one. (h/t: Megan R.)

Speaking of wildlife, the parks of Buenos Aires are home to several species of parrots. We haven’t done our birding due diligence yet, but there are a boatload of green parrots (technically, parakeets) inhabiting the trees around the embassy, just hanging out and yakking it up; which is very entertaining, by the way. I suspect they’re talking caca about the perros.

Musical Notes… (sorry, can’t help it)… Osvaldo Pugliese (1905-1995) was a legendary pianist, composer, and tango orchestra leader. He is so beloved among porteño musicians that any bad mojo, in which they believe mightily, can be repelled by saying “Pugliese, Pugliese, Pugliese” muy rápido. (h/t: Jeff H.)

Finally... The first (and smaller) of our two shipments from the States has arrived and our joy knows no bounds. Well, some bounds, but at least I’ve been reunited with my trusty toolbox, Anne with her good kitchen knives, and we now have bath towels that actually absorb water.

[Sidebar – For the uninitiated, FSOs (Foreign Service Officers) and their families newly arrived at post are issued a “Welcome Kit,” a giant footlocker chock full of household stuff. It’s actually a very nice service and we are sincerely appreciative. That said, some of the items are of better quality than others; for instance, our ironing board has a major dent in the center and a port list. Not good. But, it is a crisis of luxury, so we make do. And when the last (and exponentially larger) of our two shipments finally clears customs, we’ll pack up the ol’ WK and bid it a fond adios.]

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #02

Bulletins From BA #02

08 August 2012

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

Photo Update Alert: www.picasaweb.google.com/rodger.french

"BA-Cementerio de la Recoleta"

Buenos Aires is by far the biggest city we have ever lived in. Of course, the second biggest is Atlanta, so that’s not much of a comparison; but this place is big. Really big. Like Nueva York - only bigger - big. Happily, la Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires (official name) is also topographically flat. Really flat. Like… well, you get the idea. It is a ciudad for walking. So, A.J. and I have decided to spend a good chunk of our weekends hoofing it around town; and, since we’re new here, we figured we might as well start with some tourist hotspots.

Last Saturday, we strolled to Basilica Nuestra Señora del Pilar, a Jesuit church built in 1732. The church is adjacent to Cementerio de la Recoleta, a muy famoso necropolis that dates from 1822 and is the final resting place of many notable personas. We arrived early (i.e., before Noon) ahead of the rush of visitors, which included many Argentinians. What a fascinating experience.

When we revisit this place, I think we will engage the services of one of the many “tour guides” who hover at the entrance. But for our first go, we elected to wander about in what is, quite literally, a city of the dead. And while many of the tombs are impressive indeed, housing the remains of presidents, generals, and the well connected, we found ourselves drawn to the neglected, melancholy resting places of those who have been forgotten.

Not forgotten, by any measure, is the most famous resident of Cementerio de la Recoleta, one Eva Duarte de Perón, aka “Evita.” This past 26 July marked the anniversary of her death at the age of 33 and Señora Perón is still much loved by many Argentinians and reviled in equal measure by others. Sixty years on, she, her husband Juan Domingo Perón, and Peronismo remain the subjects of passionate debate. The woman led a short, but appropriately theatrical and cinematic life.

Interestingly, the Duarte family vault where she is entombed is a modest affair. By the time we made our way to it, however, the crowds were out in force, so lingering became a less attractive option. I can tell you that the edifice is of black stone, and decorated with a multitude of flowers, mostly red.

In addition to the cemetery, our Saturday perambulations took us to some other interesting places. Por favor, permítanme a brief, but short, summary:

Buenos Aires Design – A commercial mall “dedicated entirely to design, construction, equipment and decoration.” Home furnishings; some very appealing in design, all expensive.

El Barrio de Recoleta – A wonderful neighborhood, full of tiendas (shoppes) and excelente fruit and vegetable markets. We also happened upon a very, very high-end leather store where I tried on a chaqueta (jacket) made from the skin of carpincho (capybara), a large aquatic rodent. Yeah, I know… laugh if you will, but it was the finest garment I have ever put on my body. Simply exquisite, but a tad pricey at 4700 pesos ($1000 and change). I had to take a pass.

Palais de Glace – This fabulous domed building, originally built in 1910 as a Belle Époque ice skating and social club and later converted to an elegant ballroom for tango, currently houses arts exhibitions. We took in “Muestra Anual de Fotoperiodismo Argentino” (Annual Show of Argentine Photojournalism). Lots of good work, including a photo essay of an old man caring for his dying wife that moved me to tears. (www.palaisdeglace.gob.ar)

Life is so short and there is so much to see.

¡Adelante!

Rodger