Bulletins From BA #05
24 September 2012
¡Hola! there… Rodger
French here.
Photo Update Alert: www.picasaweb.google.com/rodger.french
“BA-Statuary 1” "BA-Aguas
Corriente”
Well, it’s just been crazy
busy around here since the last posting, although I’m pleased to report that much
has been accomplished in several areas.
Domestic
– A.J. and I finally received our ridiculously large shipment (131 boxes) from
the States; so for three days, we did basically nothing but unpack,
arrange/store stuff, and break down boxes for collection by the cartoneros.
These are the folks (sometimes entire families) who pick out recyclables and
haul them away on large pushcarts. I must say, we did a pretty good job
arranging this shipment. There was definitely more “Oh, I’m so glad to see
that.” than “What the hell were we thinking?”
Employment
– I have applied for a position as “Rover Secretary” at the Embassy; basically
the same gig I had in South Africa where I worked in the Temp Pool. I had to
reapply for a Top Secret Squirrel Security Clearance, so if you get a call from
the Feds, don’t panic. Just tell them what a hard-working, law-abiding,
all-purpose American I am. You know it’s true.
Tourism
– We have seen much more of Buenos Aires, including arguably the most beautiful
building in town, that being El Palacio de las Aguas Corriente (The Palace of
Flowing Waters); or, less highfalutinly, the water works. Completed in 1894, the palace still
functions as a pumping station and houses water company offices, as well as a
small museum. Featuring, I might add, an excellent display of toilets.
We
also took a bus tour organized by the CLO (Community Liaison Office), spending
several hours shlepping from one tourist highlight to the next. It was fun, and
gave us a better feel for the topografía de la ciudad and a preview of places
we might want to visit again.
Culture – Anne and I had
the great good fortune of scoring tickets to a musical event entitled “Troilo
Compositor,” a tribute to Anibal Troilo, the extraordinary bandoneonist,
director de orquesta y… compositor. The program took place at Teatro Maipo, a
charming place in el distrito de los teatros, with, as is the accepted custom
in Buenos Aires, seats designed by Torquemada. Not just uncomfortable, mind you.
Agonizing.
[Sidebar
and Rant: This is one of the most sophisticated cities in the world - “La París de Sudamérica” - and a magnet for
performing artists. In my opinion, forcing audiences to endure truly horrible
seating is disrespectful, not just to paying customers, but also to performers.
It’s difficult to focus attention on the stage when you are in pain. Custom, my
ass.]
The concierto was, thankfully, magnificence
itself. Thirteen músicos virtuosos, the youngest of whom is my age (65), each
played a Troilo composition on Troilo’s actual bandoneon. (The bandoneon is an
accordion-like instrument that is the instrumental soul of tango.) Fourteen players
were scheduled to appear, but one maestro had passed away only days before the
show. His performance on a previous concert video was shown, however, and
brought the house down.
I have heard the bandoneon live on a few
occasions, but this was an altogether different experience. These men brought
literally centuries of experience, emotion, and musical intelligence to the
stage. The porteños in the audience, many of the same older generation as the
músicos (musicians), listened deeply and responded with fervent respect and
enthusiasm.
For my part, I came away with a profound
appreciation for the bandoneon and the music of Anibal Troilo. Not that I have
any inclination to seriously take up the instrument; it’s a bit late in the
game for that. But I was inspired to absorb as much of the essence of the
evening’s music as possible and incorporate it into my own playing. And to keep
playing until the end. Música es vida.
¡Adelante!
Rodger
