Bulletins From BA #20
22 diciembre 2013
¡Hola! there… Rodger
French here.
[Housekeeping Note: Those of you who are new to this mailing list
can catch up on previous postings at www.rodgerfrench.blogspot.com.ar.]
A.J. and I are halfway
through our official tour of duty in Buenos Aires, an appropriate time to
comment on some things I like about the place and other things, not so much. So,
at the risk of redundancy, here are a few quotidian items for your
consideration.
Sí - Nuestro Apartamento
We are muy afortunados to
have scored a swell apartment. Though not humongous, it is capacious enough to comfortably
accommodate us and occasional out-of-towners. All the mechanicals work and the
landlady, portero (superintendent), and security guards are muy amable and look
out for us. The barrio, Palermo Chico, is one of the safest and most convenient
neighborhoods in the city and our balcony overlooks Avenida del Libertador, a
10-lane boulevard lined with large trees and many public parks.
Since the Embassy and all
our basic shopping needs are within walking distance, we haven’t needed a car
and the attendant headaches. And, we have no green space to mow, trim, rake, groom,
or generally waste our time with. (To paraphrase Mary Randolph Carter: “A well
tended lawn is the sign of a misspent life.” We do have a plant. We call it
“Fred.”)
[Also worth noting… we
live one block from an heladería that regularly features 2-for-1 kilos of
unreasonably sublime ice cream.]
No - Inflación
Though not as dire as
during the depression of 1998-2002, inflation is still a major problem in
Argentina. For us, it is particularly noticeable compared to inflation in the
United States, which has been at historic lows for years.
Sí - Tango
Tango is not hard to come
by más o menos anywhere in the world. But in Buenos Aires, it is permeating:
Tango radio, Tango TV, Tango theatre, Tango festivals, Tango turistas, Tango
buskers… Tango is everywhere. And, at the risk of lapsing into fluent cliché,
Tango really does get to the heart of this city.
No - Comida
It pains me to say this,
but the food is Buenos Aires is, well, boring. Not bad, just aburrido. Porteños
like what they like and are not particularly adventurous in their dining
habits. (In most cafés and restaurants, the only seasoning you find on the
table is salt. Period.) There are exceptions, of course, notably lomo (beef
tenderloin), chimichuri sauce, and the aforementioned helado (ice cream).
Sí - Taxis
Buenos Aires has a very good
public transit system, but we really like being able to hail a taxi at any time.
As gringos, we’ve been exploited now and then; but, in general, our experiences
with the local taxistas have been positive. I have had many interesting
conversations and more than a few downright enjoyable wild rides.
No - La Embajada de E.E.U.U.
The people who work at the
American Embassy in Buenos Aires are great, but the building itself is ugly,
overcrowded, and unhealthy. And, since Argentina is generally considered a less
than high-priority post, we make the best of it.
Sí - Perros
There are few things as
entertaining as watching a paseador de perros (dog walker) with a boatload of
leashed dogs headed to the park to do their doggie bidness. We especially enjoy
the breed-specific packs (e.g., beagles, miniature poodles, labs). Also noted: In
eighteen months of walking the streets of Buenos Aires, I have stepped in caca
de perro exactly never. It is one of my proudest accomplishments.
Anne and I are now looking
forward to our second expat Christmas in BA. So, in the spirit of the season
and in consideration of the illusory “War on Christmas” currently being waged on
the battlefields of some small caliber minds back home, permit me to proffer a possibly
helpful suggestion. When someone wishes you a “(positive adjective
followed by specific occasion),” the appropriate response is simplicity
itself: “Thanks. And the same to you.”
“Gracias. Igualmente.”
¡ Saludos del Solsticio, Felices Fiestas, Feliz
Navidad y un Próspero Año Nuevo!
Rodger
