Messages From Myanmar #22
15 October 2016
Hello there, Rodger French here.
Photo Update Alert:
“Angkor Wat”
I am a big believer in the
philosophy, “Sometimes you just get what you get.” This proves a particularly
useful attitude when considering the touristing possibilities this planet
affords. Though our world is, as Carl Sagan described it, “… a mote of dust
suspended in a sunbeam,” it still takes no small effort to get to many of the
places one should visit while one is still able.
There is, of course, a
distinct advantage in residing within (relative) striking distance of these
assorted wonders, natural and human. When we lived in Buenos Aires, for
example, there was never any doubt that we would visit Machu Pichu in Peru.
Hell, we were on the same continent, how could we not? Now that we’ve taken up
temporary residence in Myanmar, the same holds true for Angkor Wat in Cambodia.
Angkor Wat itself is one
of many temples/cities erected by a succession of Khmer kings, both Hindu and
Buddhist, between the 8th and 13th centuries. The level
of scholarship brought to bear on the study of these magnificent ruins is
extensive and somewhat daunting, and, should you thirst for detail, I recommend
the book “Ancient Angkor” by Michael Freeman and Claude Jacques. But I do have
photoz (linked above).
Anne and I flew on
AirAsia, a “low cost carrier” (motto: “You thought water was free?”) from
Yangon (via Bangkok) to Siem Reap, the town nearest the temple complex. Tourism
has been very, very good to Siem Reap, and the main road from the airport is
fraught with large hotels and tour buses. We stayed at a quite tasteful, kinda
swanky place in town, where the very obliging staff arranged a car, a driver,
and a guide for our visit to the Angkor World Heritage Park.
The day was hot… like,
jungle hot, and the park was very crowded with visitors from all over the
world, even though this is reputedly the “slow season.” Certain locations, in
fact, resembled anthills as people queued to clamber up temple steps, the
better to take selfies. Most of them were nice enough about it, although I did
find myself occasionally longing to snatch someone’s stupid selfie stick and
whack them about the head and shoulders with it.
But that would have been
undiplomatic.
Our guide was well
informed and most attentive as we spent the better part of six hours schlepping
among various ruins. It was actually a bit overwhelming and I’m still
processing the experience. What I can tell you is that A.J. and I are sincerely
grateful that we had the privilege of seeing such an estimable place. In my
travels, only Machu Pichu and the Forum in Rome compare in terms of personal wonderment.
[Royal Sidebar: Of all the Khmer kings, my favourite is Jayavarman
VII (1181-c.1220), the last great king of Angkor. Among his many architectural
contributions was the construction of 102 hospitals spread across the empire.]
The following day, we
elected to go to the Angkor National Museum in Siem Reap. This is actually a
private institution, but they’ve done an excellent job gathering together tons
of sandstone statuary and other items previously squirreled away by the government
and private collectors, thus creating a very fine and comprehensive exhibition.
Indoors and air-conditioned, too.
From the museum, we took
a “tuk tuk” (a rickshaw pulled behind a small motorcycle) downtown to score
some lunch, after which we headed back to our hotel, because it was just… too…
hot… for meandering gringos. Later that afternoon, as Anne got a pedicure and I
a Swedish massage (excellent and reasonably priced), the heavens opened and a
thunderstorm of majestic violence let loose. It was wonderful, although it no
doubt made selfies inconvenient.
And now we’re back in Yangon,
plotting our next adventure: Hanoi and Hạ Long Bay in November. After the U.S. elections.
When we’ll all need a vacation.
Onward.
Rodger
