Messages From Myanmar #25
07 February 2017
Hello there, Rodger French here.
We find ourselves in an
odd sort of twilight zone these days. No more major trips are planned, no more
visitors are scheduled, and we leave Post in late July in order to report for
duty in Rome in mid-September. From this travel correspondent’s perspective,
life in Myanmar is currently a matter of quotidian routine.
Not to say that there’s
nothing afoot. Anne is working very hard (as always) to get the new American
Center ready for dedication, although the date remains uncertain. I am still
working in Diplomatic Security and have lately been asked to help out with visa
applicant screening in the Consular Section, where the rubber, truly, meets the
road.
[Diplomatic Sidebar - Since Myanmar is not on the list of countries
cited in President* Trump’s spectacularly ill-conceived Muslim immigration ban,
we are, for the moment, carrying on bidness as usual.]
So… no breathless
descriptions of the wonders of Southeast Asia and no dramatic photoz today;
just a shout out to say hello and let you know we’re doing alright and
representing as best we can. But, just to make this a bit interesting, permit
me to offer up a few of the things I will and won’t miss about living in
Yangon. Because, why the hell not.
Yes - The
people, who have been very nice to us; especially the Embassy staff, who are
just terrific.
No -
The traffic, which is unpredictably awful and getting worse, despite the fact
that Yangon does not yet allow the chaos of motorbikes on the streets. Most traffic
signals are still controlled manually by the police, so we regularly encounter
red lights that last 10 minutes or more. Who thinks this is a good idea?
Yes - Breakfast
at the Embassy’s Shwe CafĂ©: Tuesday, Shan noodles; Wednesday, Nan gyi thohk;
Thursday, Mohinga. (Feel free to look ‘em up.)
No - The
jungle heat permeates. The jungle heat is out to get you. The jungle heat always
wins. (Although, to be fair, in 18 months, I’ve only worn socks once, and that
was to the Marine Ball. I don’t mind that.)
Yes -
Urban wildlife, particularly the feral dogs and the crows.
[Urban Wildlife Sidebar - I was walking on the sidewalk one day and
came across three crows having a committee meeting, debating the disposition of
a dead rat. Respect.]
Yes -
Shwedagon Pagoda is the essence of magnificence. I pass Shwedagon twice a day
going to/from the Embassy and never get tired of looking at it.
Bonus Feature - Actual business names. Granted, Ghana will always be the champ in this
category, but these are not bad:
- Big Boss Brothers
Service Co., LTD
- Brother Billions CCTV
and Security
- Golden Happy Hot Pot
- Micky Mouse Bar
- Sweety Home Spring Mattress
- Tony Tun Tun Beauty
Spa
Onward.
Rodger
Rodger