Felicitations From Fairhope #15
20 May 2022
Photo Update Links: Madrid/Toledo, La Alhambra, Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, Granada/Córdoba/Sevilla
Hello there… Rodger French here.
Anne and I just returned from a two-week trip to Spain – our first overseas excursion since decamping from Italy to Alabama in early 2020. She had spent time in Barcelona and Valencia as part of her gig at State, but I had never been. Well, OK… in 1972 I spent a lovely week at the Base Naval de Rota awaiting my discharge from the USN, but that Does. Not. Count.
Designed, nay, artfully crafted by A.J., our tour took us south: Madrid, Toledo, Granada, Córdoba, and Sevilla. We took in the sights, mostly parks, museums, and places steeped in Abrahamic religiosity. We dived into the tapas culture, but never ate dinner at 10pm. We walked our asses off, yet became comfortable with trains, subways, and buses. We spoke as much español as we could muster, much to the amusement of the locals.
We had a great time. Cue the highlight reel:
MADRID
Museo Nacional del Prado – One of the world’s great art museums, featuring works by Diego Velázquez, El Greco, y Francisco de Goya. Oh yes, and “The Garden of Earthly Delights” by Hieronymus Bosch, a triptych that is even more strange, disturbing, and full of wonder than expected.
Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía – Featuring a significant collection of modern art, notably works by Joan Miró, Salvador Dali, and Juan Gris. And Pablo Picasso, of course, including “Guernica,” which is even more startling, disturbing, and overwhelming than expected.
Museo Sorolla – This lovely museum resides in a mansion that was the home and workshop of the artist Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida and his family, most notably his beautiful and formidable wife Clotilde García del Castillo. It is a jewel.
Parque de El Retiro - A beautiful park in the center of Madrid near El Prado, it was full of people, but never felt too crowded, and offered a pleasant respite from walking the city streets. And, accordion players are to be found there. Always a plus.
TOLEDO
A short train ride from Madrid, Toledo is rugged, ancient, and famous for steel cutting implements and El Greco. The city has been ruled by Romans, Visigoths, Moors (who tolerated a sizable Jewish population, and Christians (who ultimately did not). Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor and noted architectural vandal (more on that later) also took up periodic residence there.
[Worst Spanish Monarchs EVER Sidebar] No contest: Isabell I de Castilla y Ferdinando II de Aragón. 1478: Launched the Spanish Inquisition. 1492: Expelled the Jews from Spain. Also, enabled Cristoforo Colombo to begin his voyages of conquest and plunder. 1502: Ordered the forced conversion of all Muslims to Christianity. That is a lot to answer for.]
Toledo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was predictably overrun with touristas. But, whaddaya gonna do… we walked up and down the steep and ancient streets, looking for shade, food (which was very good), and photo ops. We decided to bypass La Catedral Primada de Santa María de Toledo, a gothic magnum opus festooned with stolen gold, in favor of the Sephardic Museum, a small place dedicated to the Jewish cultural heritage in Spain. All in all, a nice daytrip.
GRANADA
La Alhambra - Another UNESCO etc., etc., and the most popular tourist attraction in Spain, it “was begun in 1238 by Muhammad I Ibn al-Ahmar, the first Nasrid emir and founder of the Emirate of Granada, the last Muslim state of Al-Andalus.” It is a collection of fortresses, palaces, and gardens that really deserves to be seen. Interestingly, in 1526 Charles V decided that what the place really needed was a Renaissance-style palace for… what? Contrast? So, construction was begun, but - thankfully - never fully completed.
[Fine Dining Sidebar] The best food of the trip was, for me at least, to be had at Restaurante Ruta del Azafrán (Saffron Road), located next to a small park with killer views of La Alhambra. The menu was imaginative (really, what miracles one can perform with anchovies) and the prices reasonable. And, being accomplished Gringos, we were first in line when the doors opened at 20:00.]
CÓRDOBA
We trained to Sevilla to set up camp in a really nice hotel (¡Muchas gracias, Anna!) and took off the next day for Córdoba to see the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, yet another UNES… you know the drill. This remarkable building consists of (a) an enormous mosque begun in 785 CE, when Córdoba was the capital of the Muslim-controlled region of Al-Andalus, and (b) an enormous Catholic cathedral superimposed on it beginning in 1523 with the express permission of… wait for it… Charles V. Who, to his credit, came to regret it. The result is more than a little schizophrenic, but amazing. Please check out the photoz.
[Possible Religious Experience Sidebar - The capilla mayor (main chapel) of the church is plopped smack in the middle of the former mosque’s prayer hall and includes a “symphonic organ” with 3500 pipes, más o menos. We sat down in the Gospel nave to rest our feet, with the organ surrounding us on two sides. An unassuming hombre wearing a mask (the Spaniards being quite serious about this Covid shit) quietly sat down at the console and started to play.
I am not a religious person, but I do revere the power of music. The piece, which I did not recognize, lasted maybe three minutes, during which time I was completely overwhelmed and brought to tears. It was one of the finest musical moments of my life and I am grateful for it.]
SEVILLA
Catedral de Santa María de la Sede - THE largest Gothic cathedral in the world. (But is it a UNESCO thingy? Why, yes. Yes, it is.) And it is really big: 15 doors and 80 chapels big. And the bell tower, which has become a symbol of the city, is a converted minaret. Not unlike the cathedral bell tower in Córdoba.
Museo Bellas Artes de Sevilla - Housed in a confiscated convent building, this museum’s collection originally consisted of works from confiscated convents and monasteries. So, a lot of religious art, mostly from the Sevillian Baroque. A.J. and I both particularly liked the work of Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, whose religious-themed painting sometimes seems a tad less ecclesiastical, more human, and more accessible.
Centro Cerámica Triana - Located in the Triana barrio across the Río Guadalquivir (the only navigable river in the country, by the way), this charming former tile factory, offers displays and explanations in Spanish and English concerning the history and process of ceramic tile manufacturing in Sevilla. Me, I just love the stuff, but I’m gonna need a bigger suitcase.
Before we took the train back to Madrid (and an airport hotel and a Covid test and a long flight home), we managed to get in a bit of light shopping and a final run at the tapas thing. We finally got it right at a local place recommended by our ever-helpful hotel staff. We ordered a bunch of fried items, all of which were perfect. In fact, the fried anchovies were so good that even Anne enjoyed them.
Finalmente, I would be remiss in not acknowledging how friendly and helpful the Spaniards were to us. In Myanmar, we saw signs reading: “Warmly welcome and take care of tourists.” Good advice anywhere, I think.
Gracias españoles. Estamos muy agradecidos.
Onward.
Rodger
