Messages From Myanmar #02
08 September 2015
Photo Update Alert:
“Yangon Temples”
Hello there… Rodger French
here.
It took, like, ten days, but the nasty jet lag has subsided, so
A.J. and I are finally feeling like actual human residents of Yangon. In
addition to getting our bearings and figuring out how best to get around (Pro Tip:
Taxis), we’ve also managed our first tourist excursion. And it was a dandy;
check out the photoz.
The Embassy has an in-house travel agency, so they set us up
with a driver and tour guide for a six-hour, más o menos, tour of some major
attractions. Our guide “Freddy” spoke fine English and did an excellent job. A
convert to Christianity, he grew up as a Buddhist and so was able to help
explain this ancient religion to the newly arrived gringos.
[Theological Sidebar
- My knowledge of Theravada Buddhism, the form practiced by about 90% of
Myanmar’s people, is rudimentary, to say the least; so I will resist theological
elucidation in these postings. For my own part, as a long-time religious skeptic,
I consider it my prerogative to gratefully accept those aspects (of any
religion) that feel right to me and respectfully take a pass on those that do
not.]
Chauk Htat
Gyi Pagoda Reclining Buddha - A most impressive example of a
highly revered image. First completed in 1907 and renovated in 1965, this
Buddha is 65 m (213 ft) long, 16 m (52 ft) high, and very expressively
decorated. One of the most interesting features is thus described: “The soles of the feet
contain 108 segments in red and gold colors that show images representing the
108 lakshanas or auspicious characteristics of the Buddha.”
Shwedagon Pagoda - Also known as the Golden Pagoda, this is Yangon’s most famous
landmark and Myanmar’s most important religious site. First constructed over
2500 years ago (according to legend, and a matter of some debate), the pagoda
has been enlarged and renovated many times, and numerous other structures have
been added to the site.
Situated on Singuttara
Hill (not far from our apartment, actually), Shwedagon Pagoda is 99 m (325 ft)
in height, gold plated with the equivalent of 22,000 gold bars (301 tons), and has
a spire encrusted with thousands of precious gems. It is a wondrous and opulent
sight. We spent two hours circumnavigating it, pausing to admire multitudinous
images of the Buddha, reflect on the days of our births, and consider the
importance of the number eight in Buddhist teachings. It is an altogether magnificent
place and we look forward to returning, particularly at sunset.
[Lunch Sidebar - The Thiripyitsaya Sky
Bistro, located on the 20th Floor of the Sakura Tower, offers affordable
food and excellent vistas. From there we had our first look at the Yangon River
and the Port of Yangon, which, like so much of this city, has recently
experienced intense development.]
Bogyoke
Aung San Market - Built by the British in 1926 (f.k.a. Scott’s Market),
this enormous neo-colonial structure houses hundreds of shoppes selling
antiques, jewelry, clothing and fabric, art, handicrafts, and souvenirs. It is
also reputedly the best place in Yangon to find black market moneychangers.
Many shoppes are located in extreme proximity, so the overall effect can be
claustrophobic; but the hustle is not oppressive.
Sule Pagoda - Though not as impressive as Shwedagon, Sule Pagoda occupies a
central place in Burmese life. Literally. The British used it as the starting
point when they created the present street layout of Yangon. Sule also served
as a meeting point for pro-democracy demonstrators in both 1988 and 2007 and
became the scene of brutal crackdowns by the military government.
Bonus Tourist Points - On the way home, we made two brief stops for
scouting purposes. First, The Strand
Hotel, a surprisingly unostentatious 5-star joint built by the British in
1901 and originally designed to be “patronised by royalty, nobility
and distinguished personages." (White people.) Nice gift shoppes.
The second stop was the Yangon
Central Railway Station, a grandiosely funky place and terminus for the
Yangon Circular Railway, an epic 3-hour/45.9 km (28.5 mi) journey with 39
stops. We’re giving it serious consideration.
Onward.
Rodger
