Messages From Myanmar #23
20 November 2016
Hello there, Rodger French here.
Photo Update Alert:
“Ha Long Bay/Hanoi”
For my generation, “Vietnam” was definitional. In 1968, the Tet
Offensive was raging when I reported to Navy boot camp, and the war would not
end until 1975, three years after my discharge. I served, rather
undramatically, on ships in the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, as well as the
Mediterranean Sea, facing only the quotidian risks of naval sea duty. I was not
involved in combat and never went anywhere near Vietnam, which was just fine
with me. Understandably, my view of the country itself, while not uninformed, has
long been quite abstract.
But when you take up residence in Southeast Asia, a trip to Vietnam is
definitely in the cards. A.J. and I decided to go to Hanoi, with a side trip to
Ha Long Bay, over the Veterans Day weekend, seeking respite from the recent
American electoral unpleasantness.
[Post-Election Sidebar – I
have successfully made the transition from a state of debilitating sadness to
one of simmering fury. Yeah, I can work with that.]
Cue the highlight reel.
Motorbike Madness - We arrived at our
very nice, and not too expensive, hotel in the Old Quarter, an area that has
been inhabited for over 1000 years. The scene was chaotic. Hanoi has a
population of 7.6 million, and, like, 4 million motorbikes. (By comparison, Yangon:
6 million people and, due to a military ban, 0 motorbikes.) Intersections in
Hanoi are not for the faint of heart.
Ha Long Bay - A UNESCO World
Heritage Site and big-time tourist destination, roughly four bumpy hours by bus
from Hanoi. It is spectacular and peaceful, and enormously popular. If you’re in
the ‘hood, you really should go. We spent a night on the water, paddled to a
fishing village, and ate ridiculously well. Speaking of which…
Vietnamese Food - Now officially in
my Top Five World’s Greatest Cuisines (along with Iberian, Louisianan, Mediterranean,
and Peruvian). It is fresh, healthy, and evinces “proper balance.” Of course,
this does not necessarily apply to street food. Speaking of which…
Street Food Tour - Our exemplary hotel
staff booked a guide who took us and four other touristas on a three-hour tour
(insert Boomer musical reference here), stopping in who-the-hell-knows-how-many
places; each unique, each delicious. Plus, it was Sunday night with a full moon
and everyone in Hanoi was out in the streets. The effect was downright lysergic.
Museums - The Vietnamese
Women’s Museum, the Viet Nam Fine Arts Museum, and the Ho Chi Minh Museum. Each
was very well composed, being both entertaining and informative. And if one
were anticipating some commie propaganda, one would not be disappointed. What
we call the “Vietnam War” is still a BFD in Hanoi.
[Ho Chi Minh Status Sidebar
- We considered going to see “Uncle Ho” lying in state, but as his remains had
been shipped off to Russia for periodic maintenance, we demurred.]
Other Attractions - The Special
National Vestige Sword Lake and Ngoc Son Temple: Hanoi's most
visited temple sits on a small island in Hoan Kiem Lake, connected to the shore
by an elegant scarlet bridge. It also houses the stuffed remains of a
much-revered giant turtle, reputedly several hundred years old when it died as
a result of wounds sustained during an American air raid in 1967.
Lotus Water Puppet Theatre: Traditional Vietnamese water puppet show,
featuring traditional Vietnamese music. Absolutely charming.
[Bonus Veterans Day Sidebar
- We were walking by the lake and I passed an old Vietnamese gentleman proudly
wearing his military medals. I nodded to him in respect. He responded with a smile
and a salute. A good moment.]
Finally, in other news… since some of you apparently really want to
know, here’s the word on our next (and last) State Department assignment,
scheduled for fall 2017:
Rome.
Onward.
Rodger
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