Dispatches from DC #07

24 December 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

This is our first Christmas/Hanukkah/Kwanzaa/Winter Solstice/Cold & Flu Season in the U-S-A since 2005 and so far, so good. Anne and I are planning on a modest celebration this year; seeing a few friends, taking in a flick, and assiduously avoiding things what generate seasonal stress: Shopping malls, airports, interstate highways, and FOX News. "War on Christmas," my tuchus.

It's pretty quiet here in northern VA, not least because the Congressional clown car has left town. There was that lunar eclipse on the Solstice, but since A.J. and I were fortunate enough to catch one of these events from our front stoop in Ghana, we took a pass on getting up at some ungodly hour in the butt-freezing cold. But our recent trip to New York City was a great success, consisting as it did of visiting dear friends as well as exhaustive walking interspersed with outstanding dining experiences. (Culinary highlights included Chinese and delicatessen in Midtown and Cuban in Union City, NJ.)

If you have never visited NYC at the height of the Holidaze, you really should. The place is gay (and festive), grand, and trés pittoresque, especially the outdoor markets. Unless, of course, you have an aversion to throngs of excited, skylarking touristes... standing in endless lines... for the opportunity of renting ice skates and falling on their derriéres. But then, we are all free to celebrate the season as we wish, especially when it comes to fulfilling the fundamental and compelling human need to transact commerce.

In Times Square, that motivation has been translated into a display that is corporately, spectacularly, even transcendently bonkers. Standing at the junction of Broadway and Seventh Avenue is like being sucked into a garish video game, the concept of which is to cram as much "visual noise" as possible into an unrealistically small space while drinking an LSD/meth smoothie. It's bizarrely entertaining, to be sure; but, having first discovered New York City in the early1970s, I kinda miss the low-tech seediness of yore.

Rather than wallow in tacky nostalgia, however, I'll just take this opportunity to wish each and every one of my faithful and supportive readers (and you both know who you are) the most excellent of seasons, whichever holiday miracle, myth, sidereal event, or sports competition you choose to observe in whatever manner, sacred or secular, you may deem appropriate. For my part, I say celebrate them all. It couldn't hurt.

And may the New Year bring you, if not what you want, at least what you need.

Onward.

Rodger

Dispatches from DC #06

08 December 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

I'm not much for pilgrimages, although I do appreciate the human need for ritual and value the paying of respect to those actually worthy of it. So, I am in New York City on the 30th anniversary of the murder of John Lennon and this very afternoon made the journey uptown and on foot to "Strawberry Fields," 2.5 acres of landscaping located at 72nd Street and Central Park West. When I arrived the place was already packed with fans, tourists, cops, and TV satellite trucks. I didn't stay long; it was wicked crowded, butt-freezing cold, and I had to pee. Desperately. In other words, a typical winter day in NYC.

Loathe I am to revisit previous postings; but after careful consideration, I have concluded that what I wrote for the 25th anniversary is still, from my personal point of view, right on the mark. So, for what it's worth, here it is, with minor revisions. And great respect.

Originally Posted: December 8, 2005

"John Lennon is an important figure to me. He was a great musician, something I strive to be. He was also fearless about living his own life, for better and worse, and usually in the public eye. Finally, he was clever and a smart-ass. I liked that.

Zillions of people have written exhaustively about Lennon, The Beatles, and the ways in which they changed the landscape of popular music. But music is a visceral thing, especially for a teenager, and I have my own distinct memories of hearing The Beatles early on. The first occasion was on a broadcast of 'The Jack Paar Show.' That film clip constituted, as I recall, their initial appearance on American TV, and they sang 'From Me to You' (still one of my faves). And then... 'She Loves You' hit the airwaves (WAKY-AM in Louisville, KY), reached right out through the radio and took my breath away. Still does.

But it was with the release of 'Rubber Soul' that I really started to pay close attention to Lennon's writing, particularly 'In My Life.' I was very impressed that a Rock & Roll star in his mid-20s would write such a serious, reflective song. It was about this time that I started to regard John Lennon as something of a surrogate older brother (I'm the eldest of three boys), a person I could look to for a certain amount of guidance in how - and how not - to approach life.

So I came of age to, among many interesting things, Lennon's music. It accompanied me through high school, college, the Navy, marriage, divorce, and experimentations with altered states of awareness. And while I never consciously emulated John's life, I did take great comfort in knowing he was out there - somewhere - and I always wished him the best. Especially when he came out in opposition to the war in Vietnam, was hounded by the FBI, and ended up on Nixon's 'Enemies List,' a badge of honor in my estimation. When he finally got his Green Card and was able to set up permanent legal residence in New York City, I was glad for him and Yoko.

Then he went away for five years and, well, that was cool because I was pretty sure he needed a break. But in the autumn of 1980, I heard 'Starting Over' on my car radio and realized that John Lennon was back... and he sounded damned good. 'Double Fantasy' was a great comeback album and I was happy that Lennon's music was going to be part of my life's soundtrack once again. Besides, I figured we needed all the help we could get, what with the election of Ronald Reagan and the rise of the Talibangelicals.

And then John Lennon was gone.

Not Eddie Cochran gone, not Jimi Hendrix gone, not even Elvis Presley gone. Accidents, drug overdoses, bad lifestyles... in the world of Rock & Roll, those kinds of deaths are at least comprehensible. But John Lennon was stalked and gunned down in cold blood, in front of his own home, by some creep to whom he had given an autograph that very day. At the age of 40, one of the best and most important musicians of my time was taken away for no goddamned good reason. I will never get entirely over it - and will bloody likely never forgive his assassin.

Never... because he ended the life of someone who still had great music to make. Never... because he silenced a voice for peace in a world of pain. Never... because he took John Lennon away - from his family, his future, and his chance to grow old. And, selfish though it may be, I was looking forward to that, because Lennon would have been a great old man: someone worth watching, listening to, and learning from. His death is a profound loss.

I miss John Lennon. But, life goes on and I'm sure he wouldn't want us to wallow about in maudlin nostalgia, thank you very much. Besides, we still have the music. So here is a personal and eminently transitory playlist to celebrate the life of an extraordinarily creative and remarkable guy. My Top 10 for today, December 8... for all of us living on borrowed time:"

In My Life

Nowhere Man

Tomorrow Never Knows

Strawberry Fields Forever

I Am the Walrus

Across the Universe

Instant Karma

Working Class Hero

#9 Dream

Watching the Wheels

[Sidebar - I will always be grateful to Howard Cosell for the way he broke the news of John Lennon's assassination to me and millions of other football fans on Monday night, December 8, 1980. The most sensitive and graceful remarks ever delivered by a sports commentator. Ever.]

Onward.

Rodger

Dispatches from DC #05

14 November 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

One of the things I miss most about Pretoria is the weather, which, as previously noted, is darn near perfect all the time. The same cannot be said, unfortunately, for the Washington, DC area. Since the entire enterprise was built on a swamp, so the summer climate here ranges from simply awful to God-awful. Winters are more of a crapshoot. Last year saw record snowfalls, but a winter without a single snowflake is just a likely.

To be fair, however, there are brief passages in the spring and autumn when the Washington skies are blue, the winds moderate, and the temperature ideal. Such has been the case for the past few days, and there is simply no excuse for not taking a nice, long walk to check out the fall foliage and a few of the ubiquitous memorials.

Emerging from the Metro Smithsonian Station, A.J. and I decided to stroll around the Tidal Basin, a man-made reservoir lined with Japanese cherry trees and featuring the Thomas Jefferson Memorial (dedicated in 1943), a neoclassical construction and one of my personal favourites. Simple and elegant in design, Jefferson's words are carved large in the walls, words that seem temporarily out of favour, words like "enlightened," "progress," and "justice." It is a beautiful place.

Continuing around the water, we came upon the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial (1997), which was new to both of us. Constructed of blocks of red granite and featuring a series of open-air "rooms" and much moving water, the atmosphere seems more contemplative than other such places (except, I think, for the Vietnam Veterans Memorial (1982) - "The Wall" - which is much more personal). On this day, the contrast between the stone and the color of autumn leaves enhanced the quietude of the experience. If you should come here, go to this place.

There is always construction in the National Mall area and we walked passed the expansive site of the Martin Luther King, Jr. National Memorial, due to open in 2011. From there, we made our way to the National World War II Memorial (2004), located on the Mall's central axis running from the Abraham Lincoln Memorial (1922) to the west to the George Washington Monument (1884) to the east. Comprised of a huge plaza and fountain surrounded by stone pillars, this is memorial architecture most conventional. Which is fine, of course: Big war, big memorial.

So that was our day. Unfortunately, we missed out on the Korean War Veterans Memorial (1995), which, I have been told, is particularly striking at night. No worries, as we will no doubt be making more of these trips between now and two autumns hence in 2012. And for all the snarky things I have to say about America's capital (which happen to be true, by the way), there is much here of great worth and much of it is absolutely free. If you have never been, you should come; after all, you paid for it.

But try to avoid the summer.

Onward.

Rodger

Dispatches from DC #04

07 November 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

It's been an interesting time here in the self-proclaimed "Capital of the Free World." As you may have heard, America had an election last week and, once again, voters (or at least the ones who bothered to get off their asses) gave the Republican Party a clear mandate, not to be confused with the clear mandate they gave the Democratic Party two years ago, never mind the (classic) Supreme Court one-vote mandate of 2000. Mandates seem to occur like periodic herpes outbreaks in this great land of ours.

But, as a proud, card-carrying Liberal, I thought it best to make a positive contribution to the process; so, in addition to voting, I spent 15 hours with some fellow citizens working the polls at my local precinct. It was a long day, to be sure, but I actually enjoyed assisting folks in the exercise of their franchise and only wish more people had showed up. The percentage of eligible, possibly informed American voters who actually turn out is downright pathetic.

As is the tsunami of post-election analysis now engulfing us at every turn. CW (Convention Wisdom) trumps all in medialand, with results construed, often at the expense of, you know, reality, to fit narratives carefully constructed by millionaire pundits and radio/TV personalities at the behest of their corporate overlords. So, in the interest of brevity, please permit me to offer my own pithy political prognostication for the next two years:

Republicans - Insane

Democrats - Spineless

Outlook - Totally F@#ked

In other news, we are still awaiting the release of our HHE (Household Effects) shipment from South Africa that is currently being held hostage in Baltimore. Ah, but won't that be a rapturous day. Anne continues to successfully settle into the realities of working at the U.S. State Department in the actual U.S., and I've begun taking my spiffy new bike out and about, just in time for the annual winter BFC (Butt Freezing Cold) cycling season. So, life goes on, mandates and all.

[Bonus Signage from "The Rally to Restore Sanity and or Fear" -

"The guy behind me can't see"

"Free Lohan"

"Don't Tread on Snakes"

"What America needs... oh look, a puppy"]

Onward.

Rodger

Dispatches from DC #03

31 October 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

And Happy Halloween to you all. Anne and I plan to celebrate this year by engaging in some unbridled hedonism, to wit, breaking out the candy corn, tuning in game 4 of the World Series, and enthusiastically rooting for the San Francisco Giants. Not that the Rangers aren't a fun team to watch, but pull for a team - any team - from Texas? I don't think so. Anyway, we need a little quality couch time after yesterday.

We attended the "Rally to Restore Sanity and/or Fear" on the National Mall, and it was ginormous. The National Park Service, which typically lowballs crowd numbers, put attendance at 200,000+, meaning that probably 250,000+ people showed up. The Metro system was completely swamped; it took us two hours to make a trip that normally takes twenty minutes. And, like the vast majority of participants, we got nowhere near the stage.

But the crowd, mostly young and white, was very civilized, and apart from some misguided youths climbing trees and even buildings (so I hear) and clambering on top of the portable toilets (which is very disconcerting if you're trying to pee) in order to get a better view, the proceedings proceeded quite sanely. Which was, of course, the point.

For those of us who missed out on the official program, entertainment value was provided by the signage people brought with them. Ever the diligent correspondent, I scribbled down a few possibly interesting examples and would like to pass them on to you, complete with helpful contextual headings.

Spiritual: "God Hates Figs - Mark 11: 12-14"

Sensual: "Watching Christine O'Donnell makes me want to touch myself."

Reasonable: "We may disagree, but I will not stomp on your head."

Economical: "Gay Mexican Nazis are raising my taxes."

Practical: "I don't mind paying taxes because roads don't pave themselves."

Cultural: "Stop Justin Bieber"

Gustatory: "Tea Party? Make mine an Iced Chai Latte."

Classical: "What's so funny about Peace, Love and Understanding?"

A.J. Favourite: "Librarians for Informed Opinion"

All in all, the Rally proved to be a fine way to spend a beautiful autumn afternoon. That evening, against long, crowded odds, a number of dear friends made their way to our flat, where we engaged in scintillating conversation whilst ingesting copious quantities of quality snackage - a fine housewarming party and perfect way to conclude the day.

[Civic Responsibility Reminder: Tuesday, November 2 is Election Day. In addition to voting, I will be a poll worker at my local precinct. If you are a registered voter and are ambivalent about participating, I encourage you to be a conscientious citizen and get your sorry ass to the polls. And no "they're all the same" bullshit excuses. Somebody's going to get elected and the lesser of two evils is still less evil. One more thing: If you don't vote, don't bitch. Thank you very much.]

Onward.

Rodger

Dispatches from DC #02

16 October 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

I'm pleased to report that matters have settled a bit, what with Anne starting her newish State Department gig at Foggy Bottom. Our place is taking shape and the nearby DC Metro (a classic example of socialist evil in action) is most convenient for commuting as well as touristing. We've already visited two major (and free) attractions in town.

Seeking refuge from the clutter of our apartment, we decided to take in the clutter at the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum. The place has been renovated since my last visit, but all the major goodies are still there. My personal favourites are a room dedicated to the Wright Brothers, an impossibly small Gemini space capsule, and a Douglas DC-3 (the greatest airplane ever) suspended from the ceiling. And with school back in session, the museum was not overrun by busloads of America's future rocket scientists.

Our other excursion took us to the Thomas Jefferson Building of the Library of Congress. This fabulous Italian Renaissance-style structure - festooned with paintings, mosaics, and statuary - houses roughly a bazillion books, including many of the extremely rare and priceless variety (Gutenberg Bibles, for example). The Main Reading Room, a magnificent place that is normally closed to the public, was open in honor of Columbus Day (also open on Presidents Day), so we were able to wander freely about. The joint looks like a movie set, which, I believe, it has actually been.

[Useful Information: Anyone can come in and use the facilities as long as they have a Reader Identification Card, which is available to persons at least 16 years of age who have a government issued picture ID. Very cool.]

Back on the home front, I've adjusted pretty quickly to living in an apartment for the first time and revel at being able to walk or take public transportation to many of the places I need to go. I am also relieved to not have to worry about matters involving yard vegetation. (My motto: "The well tended lawn is a sign of a misspent life.") Best of all, accordion practicing is happening again and I have rekindled some hope of continuing my peripatetic musical career.

In other news, you may or may not know that on Saturday, 30 October there will be a possibly significant rally on the National Mall beginning at Noon. Jon Stewart's "Rally to Restore Sanity" and Stephen Colbert's "March to Keep Fear Alive" will join forces for a "Rally to Restore Sanity and/or Fear." Of course. It should be a fun and memorable day and we will SO be there.

[Helpful Programming Note: For readers in other lands who may not be familiar with American TV, Stewart and Colbert are prominent comedians/satirists who regularly comment on political and social issues. Please don't confuse them with a fellow named Glenn Beck, who recently held his own rally in Washington, DC. Beck, while deplorably influential, is arguably sociopathic and/or insane, and decidedly not funny.]

Onward.

Rodger

Dispatches from DC #01

07 October 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here. Finally.

The farewells in Pretoria were extensive and heartfelt, the flight from Johannesburg six movies long and then some, and the weather in the southeastern United States hot and beastly. All in all, your basic transition from four years in Africa to a new life, for the next two years, in the nation's capital. After regrouping with our dear friends R & D in Alexandria, Virginia for a couple of daze, A.J. and I hit the road to visit other friends and aging relatives.

This epic journey took us to Kentucky, Alabama, Florida, Georgia, North Carolina, and back to VA. (By the way, if you're going to the Orlando area, do not miss the Kennedy Space Center. Wicked awesome and not a mouse in sight.) Upon our return, we checked into our new abode in the fabulous Hawthorn Building in Arlington, VA minutes before two households worth of goods from our past lives, sitting in storage these few years, were delivered and deposited all over the place. We've begun to make sense of things, although we have way too much stuff, with more yet to come from South Africa.

This is my first experience living in a condo building and it should prove most useful, especially if housing at our next posting happens to be of the apartment persuasion. It's time to reassess, edit, and pare down... a lot. Anybody need more stuff? Really, talk to me.

Our flat is walking distance from the DC Metro, so we can usually leave the mighty Honda Element (aka "The Toaster") in the garage and avoid the routinely horrible DC area traffic. I've also procured a very nice bike and expect to be mobile just as soon as I can figure out the new-fangled gear shifters.

What else... I am trying very hard to view the land of my birth with new eyes, like someone who is visiting for the first time. Not a convenient conceit, certainly, but one worth pursuing in the interest of good travel writing and the maintenance of reader interest. So please bear with me as I get my bearings and I promise to resist the temptation to deliver the snark regarding sundry idiots littering the political landscape in an election year. Seriously, I'll try.

One other thing. If you find yourself planning a trip to the capital of the free world (Official Motto: "Taxation Without Representation"), please let us know. Meanwhile, be well and stay tuned.

Onward.

Rodger

Postings from Pretoria #39

31 August 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

Bonus Photo Update Alert: http://picasaweb.google.com/rodger.french

“ZA Flora 2”

Since we’re outta here in two days, I daresay it’s appropriate to comment on some things I will miss about South Africa and some things I will not. No deep contemplation and/or meaningful sociological revelations here; just a few quotidian items for your consideration.

YES – Pretoria Weather

Pretty perfect all year round, seldom too hot, cold, or humid. Just lovely. And the thunderstorms are wicked awesome.

NO – Home Security

Six keys to get in the front entrance, four to get in the back (not counting the garage door), and don’t even get me started on the psychotic electronic alarm system. Plus, ten additional interior locks, multiple panic buttons, and a safe haven. Enough already!

YES – Lynnwood Housewives Market

A ten minute walk up the road, this is a classic green grocer chock full of fresh produce, fruits, and other goodies. And it’s adjacent to the Groenkloof Slaghuis (butcher shop), the source of a perfect Saturday morning breakfast: A large boerwors (spiced beef sausage) cooked on the braai (BBQ) and served on a soft roll with grilled onions, mustard, and chilli sauce. Pure culinary ecstasy for R16.

NO – Minibus Taxis

Whenever I drive, I automatically assume that any taxi I see is going to pull some crazy shit, like, stopping for no apparent reason, hanging a U-turn at a busy intersection, or passing on the sidewalk. Taxis are also regularly involved in horrendous accidents resulting in multiple fatalities. Taxi driving is a tough gig; I respect that, but WTF. And it doesn’t help their reputation when some drivers in Joburg take potshots at the new Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) vehicles, which they view as unfair competition.

YES – Locally Employed Staff (LES)

As a member of the Embassy Temp Pool, I spent a month filling in as Mailroom Supervisor and developed a very friendly relationship with the South Africans employed there. We made a good team and I will miss working with them. This applies to other LES as well; having worked six different Embassy jobs, I can testify that they keep the place going.

NO – Julius Malema

President of the African National Congress Youth League (ANCYL): A corrupt, thuggish, adolescent (at 29 years of age) Robert Mugabe wannabe. Sometimes called the “Sarah Palin of South Africa,” he too has vociferous, often vitriolic, followers, makes demagogic pronouncements, and is catnip to the media. Unlike Palin, however, this bozo could conceivably become president of his country.

YES – Madam & Eve (www.madamandeve.co.za)

A syndicated comic strip about a white madam and her black maid, “Madam & Eve” is topical, goodhearted, and very funny. I have gleaned quite a bit about life and race relations in South Africa from it and now rank it among my favourite strips along with “Bloom County,” “The Boondocks,” “Calvin and Hobbes,” “Dilbert,” “Doonesbury,” and “The K Chronicles.”

NO – Strikes

I am all in favor of unions and have no doubt that most South African workers should be getting a better deal. In addition, worker actions had a decisive role in the dismantling of apartheid and are rightly considered an honoured part of South African history.

That said, the number of strikes we’ve witnessed since arriving in September 2008 is simply amazing. They include: Public service workers (shutting down schools and hospitals), transport workers (affecting all rail and port operations), trade union workers (ditto, World Cup construction projects), municipal workers (including rubbish collectors - who also ripped off our rubbish bin), bus drivers, taxi drivers, auto workers, communications workers, metalworkers, mineworkers, doctors, police, and even soldiers.

YES – The Southern Cross

As seen from Cape Town… and Montusi, and Oudtshoorn, and Namib-Naukluft… and our front yard. We’re a long way from where we started.

Anne and I have had a memorable tour in South Africa and are keen to return someday. For now, thank you for your kind attention and stay tuned for “Dispatches from DC,” coming sooner or later. Be well.

Onward.

Rodger

Postings from Pretoria #38

13 August 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here. Still.

Photo Update Alert: http://picasaweb.google.com/rodger.french

“Cape Town/Table Mountain” “Garden Route” “Garden Route 2” “Klein Karoo”

Longish Posting Alert: Our excellent Western Cape adventure continues.

Day 5 – About that fog… geographically, the Outeniqua and Tsitsikamma mountains separate the verdant Garden Route from the arid semi-desert Klein (“Little”) Karoo. So, depending on temperature and prevailing winds… Voila! Le fog. But we persevered and so made our way to Mossel Bay, which was first “discovered” by Bartolomeu Dias, a Portuguese explorer, in 1488. A museum dedicated to this momentous event includes an actual full-size and seaworthy replica of the caravel Dias arrived in. (It’s amazing how small those vessels actually were.)

Making our way through a twilight zone of fog and roadwork, we arrived at Wilderness, where Anne had booked yet another fabu beachfront accommodation. A walk on the beach, some Italian food, and surf sounds for sleeping. Nice.

Day 6 – Since we were staying two nights in Wilderness, we had a day to tool around, starting with a drive to Plettenberg Bay, an upscale vacation/retirement haven for people with boatloads of loot. Then we went to Knysna (“nize-nah”), a former timber port and shipbuilding center. To enter the harbour, one must navigate a narrow passage at “The Heads,” an extremely dangerous proposition for any sizable vessel. The views, however, are splendid. After lunch (including some of the famous and very tasty Knysna oysters), we hung around the waterfront until it was time to head into the woods.

The Wilderness National Park is not far, and we had our choice of easy or ridiculous hikes into an old growth forest. It being late in the day, easy seemed appropriate. The highlight of our stroll was “The Big Tree,” a majestic yellowwood estimated to be 800-900 years old. We paid our respects and made our way back to the beach in time for sunset.

Day 7 – Up, breakfast, and off to the Klein Karoo, with a brief stop to visit the Outeniqua Transport/Railway Museum in the town of George. (I love these places.) Then it was off to Oudtshoorn (roughly, “oot-shoorn) – “The Ostrich Capital of the World.” But first… a brief side trip to Cango Caves, some 30km up the road, where we had a choice of the “standard tour” (one hour, user friendly) or the “adventure tour” (three hours, lots of crawling and clambering about). One hour later, we emerged.

[Sidebar – For thirty years, concerts were held regularly in the large chamber, but had to be discontinued due to audience members vandalizing the caves in search of souvenirs. That’s just sad.]

Back in Oudtshoorn, we sought out Lugro Ostrich, a specialty leather shoppe, where we expressed curiosity as to why ostrich leather goods are so damned expensive. Our answer came in the form of a factory tour led by the proprietor, who offered technical explanations concerning the breeding, harvesting, and processing of these odd creatures and their hides. Our query satisfactorily answered, A.J. and I, not wanting to appear rude, purchased a couple of modest items.

Continuing the theme, we spent the evening at De Denne Guesthouse, located on a working ostrich farm owned by Louise and Johan Keller, a 4^th generation ostrich rancher. Our dinner featured ostrich steaks grilled on the braai accompanied by a zillion stars and the calls of male ostriches making romantic overtures; a sound very much like a roaring lion. What a great night.

Day 8 – We awoke to a clear, cold, and perfect dawn. After a short walk around the ranch, accompanied by Bruno the dog, we had breakfast and set off west on Route 62 Scenic Highway through the heart of the Klein Karoo and molto spettacolare scenario. At Montagu, a pleasant village on the edge of the Karoo, we happened upon a weekly community sale at the local church, where I encountered possibly the best sandwich ever: Grilled lamb, crusty bread, and spicy sauce, all homemade.

We continued on to the Jan Harmsgat Guesthouse, a 1723 vintage spread ensconced in the foothills of the mighty Langeberg mountains, where we were treated to a “sundowner” drive and tour of the new plantings (including 32,000 pomegranate trees) followed by a 5-course “slow food” banquet that lasted three and a half hours. Great food, great conversation, molto Italiana.

Day Last – The drive back to Cape Town started off quietly enough, but the unpredictable Cape weather soon engulfed us in showers and often torrential rain. We took heart, however, in seeing four complete rainbows along the way… or maybe it was the same rainbow encouraging us on… yeah, let’s go with that. Obviously, we made it back OK, returning to Pretoria to continue preparations for our move Stateside in September.

Anne and I have been most fortunate to be able to take advantage of this and the other touristic opportunities afforded us over the past two years. (We have already started compiling our “when we return to southern Africa” list.) But, well intentioned though these Postings are, they can offer but a superficial overview of these amazing journeys. A tasting, if you will.

When we meet again, I’ll tell you more, perhaps over a bottle of South African wine.

Onward.

Rodger

Postings from Pretoria #37

10 August 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

Photo Update Alert: http://picasaweb.google.com/rodger.french

“Cape Town/Table Mountain” “Garden Route” “Garden Route 2” “Klein Karoo”

Regular readers of these postings are doubtless aware that Anne and I will be leaving South Africa on 02 September to serve the next two years in the greater Washington, DC environs. I am shocked (and stunned) to realize that our two years in ZA have passed so quickly and that there are so many places we wanted to see but could not schedule time for.

Fortunately, A.J. was on the case, and organized (with a fair degree of assistance from moi) a final, stupendous, and awesomely grand 8-day tour of Cape Town, the Garden Route, and the Klein Karoo. Photoz are available, natch.

Day 1 – Flew to Cape Town in a fully booked 737 (“Cattle Car of the Sky”) and arrived to cool, foggy, and windy weather, typical for this time of year. We rented a car, checked into a nice apartment in the City Bowl neighborhood and set out on foot for the Natural History Museum, where we took in a fascinating exhibit about South African dinosaurs. Then we went to dinner and discussed plans for what to do in Cape Town in the fog.

Day 2 – Naturally, we awoke to no fog and calm winds. Only one thing to do: Cruise up to Table Mountain for a tram ride to the summit - along with busloads of Chinese monks, Indian families, and other assorted fellow foreigners, including Halle Berry. Really. (She’s very petite and gorgeous in person, by the way.) Anyway, the views from Table Mountain are even more magnificent than Ms. Berry, and Anne and I were thrilled that we finally made it to the top. It would have been a great regret to miss out on that.

Afterwards, we went to the waterfront, had an overpriced, but excellent sushi lunch, and visited the National Sea Rescue Institute shoppe one last time. Then off we went to the South African National Gallery to take in some art. All in all, a very full, very fine last day in Cape Town. And, at the risk of repeating myself: If you ever have a chance to visit Cape Town, GO.

Day 3 – The fog was back as we made our way up the eastern coast to Hermanus, the epicenter for watching migrating Southern Right Whales. A.J. arranged accommodation on the water near the Cliff Walk, which was ideal for whale spotting. It being the off-season, there were far fewer whales (and attendant tourists) about, but we still observed several during our walk into town, including a female and her five day-old calf. Kind of wondrous. That evening we ate supper in and slept to the sounds of the surf.

Day 4 – Up early for breakfast and another cliff walk (and another mother-calf sighting) before heading to Cape Agulhas, “The Southernmost Tip of Africa.” Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope are more spectacular (and almost as far south), but it was very pleasant to spend time in what is still basically an undiscovered place.

[Sidebar - The lighthouse at Cape Agulhas was built in 1848. According to official records, there are 124 shipwrecks within an 80 km radius, dating from 1672-1990.]

Being conscientious tourists, we toured the lighthouse museum, climbed to the top, and ate a fine seafood lunch in the tea room. It was a beautiful day in a beautiful place. But we had to get up the road, so it was onward past yellow fields of canola and several long stoppages for road repair to Swellendam, where we passed an altogether uneventful night in the fog.

More soon.

Rodger