Bulletins From BA #08

Bulletins From BA #08

04 Diciembre 2012

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

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“BA-Jacarandas”  “Puerto Madryn”

Greetings, fellow correspondents, from Piso 15 of the Sheraton Hotel overlooking the Río de la Plata in Montevideo, Uruguay. Anne is here on bidness and I tagged along, because why the hell not. It’s nicely scenic here, and much (much) more relaxed than Buenos Aires, so I might actually complete this más overdue posting.

A lot has happened in the past month. I’ve started working at the Embajada as a Rover Secretary, filling in as OMS (Office Management Specialist) when needed, just as I did in Pretoria. It’s a good gig for the likes of me.

Speaking of gigs, I was hired (as in paid) to provide ambient musical entertainment for the Election Night Celebration at the Ambassador’s residence; a glittering affair attended by 600 guests (más o menos) featuring food, wine, and wall-to-wall election coverage on big-ass TVs. The event was un gran éxito (a great success); people responded favourably to the accordion and it was, obviously, a good night to be a Democrat. But more importantly from my perspective, the election results put an end to the prospective horror of “Secretary of State John Bolton.”

The other big news is that Anne and I finally escaped the inertia of Buenos Aires and went touristing to the eastern shore of Patagonia, specifically Península Valdes (www.enpeninsulavaldes.com), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This being our first major journey in Argentina, we opted for a package tour (a first for us) offered through the Embassy Community Liaison Office. Our tour group consisted of around 40 Embassy folks, including kidz, and was a pretty amenable bunch. (Good thing, too, because we spent a lot of time in a tour bus schlepping through some seriously arid landscapes.)

After a two hour flight from BA, we arrived at El Tehuelche Airport near Puerto Madryn, our base of operations and a very nice seaside ciudad with two industries: Tourism and, somewhat incongruently, aluminium processing. From there, we embarked daily in search of large marine mammals, penguins, and other local attractions. Cue the highlight reel:

Whales (Ballenas) – The waters around Península Valdes are prime territory for the Southern Right Whale, a species formerly hunted to the brink of extinction because (a) they have no natural fear of man, and (b) they do not sink after they are killed. We went out in a boat and saw quite a few of them, mostly mothers with their calves. No National Geographic photo ops, unfortunately, but wonderful viewing at close range nonetheless. And, at no additional charge, our boat broke down and had to be towed back to shore. Very cool.

[Sidebar – The current major threat to the Southern Right Whale population is the proliferation, due to waste from fish processing plants and human garbage, of predatory sea gulls that attack and feed on the whales. This is a very serious problem.]

Sea Lions (Leones Marinos) & Elephant Seals (Elefantes Marinos) – It’s molting season for these critters, so they spend most of their time lying around on the rocky coast. Very photogenic, in a lumpish sort of way.

Penguins (Pingüinos) – Punta Tombo (www.puntatombo.com) is home to the world’s largest colony of Magellanic Penguins. It was a long bus ride from Puerto Madryn, but worth the trip, as we observed tens of thousands of penguins going about their daily routine, which evidently includes posing for tourist photoz. They (the penguins) take shelter and raise their young under bushes and in holes in the ground, which gives the place a sort of prairie dog village vibe.

Sheep (Ovejas) – A small group of us took a side trip to San Guillermo (www.san-guillermo.com), an estancia (guest ranch) to have lunch and witness a demonstration of sheep shearing. It was a surprisingly educational experience. Raising Merino sheep for wool is increasingly difficult as a result of decreased rainfall, declining consumer demand in Italy, and increased predations of feral dogs from nearby towns. So, San Guillermo’s owners have wisely shifted the major focus of their operation to tourism. The shearing demo was fun for everybody but the sheep, the lunch was excellent, and the resident guanaco (a variety of llama) spit on some of the kidz. At no additional charge.

Seafood (Mariscos) – And speaking of good times, allow me to recommend Cantina Marcelino, located in the town of Rawson, capital of Chubut Province. Absolutely the best seafood paella and the most entertaining waiter, llamado Roberto, I have ever experienced.

We also made very brief visits to two other towns in Chubut: Trelew, where Butch Cassidy, The Sundance Kid, and Etta Place took up residence for awhile; and Gaiman, an agricultural oasis and centre of Welsh settlement in Argentina. As we were were rapidly running out of daylight, our time in both places was somewhat perfunctory, if perfectly pleasant. 

This was not a budget excursion, but travelling in Argentina, indeed, anywhere in South America, is a pricey proposition, assuming you aren’t into backpacking. (For us, those days are long past.) But our tour organizers and guides did a fine job, everyone had a memorable experience, and we weren’t obliged to use any obstreperous children as orca bait. En mi opinión, un gran éxito.

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #07

Bulletins From BA #07

03 Noviembre 2012

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

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“BA-Buildings 2”

This past Sunday, A.J. and I took a significant, nay, monumental step forward in our continuing journey toward normalcy as residents of Buenos Aires. We figured out how to go to the movies.

En realidad (actually), it was quite easy, except for the whole “set up an account with an online ticket service website entirely en español” thing. But once that was done, we were able to purchase and print our tix, which, incidentally, are much cheaper than in the States. We even picked out our assigned seats.

The theatre itself, a fifteen-minute walk away, is very nice; complete with big screens, comfortable stadium seating, and overpriced refreshments. In Argentina, all foreign films are shown in their original language with Spanish subtitles. (The exception is children’s flicks, which are dubbed so the hijos don’t have to work too hard.) For our first South American cinematic experience, we selected the Ben Affleck movie “ARGO.”

In case you haven’t seen it, “ARGO” is a thriller based on events that occurred during the Iran hostage crisis in 1980. Since some of the protagonists were State Department diplomats and employees, this film hits close to home. Anne and I liked it and feel that it rings pretty true, especially the opening sequences recreating the takeover of the U.S. Embassy in Teheran, which are simply chilling.

I’m not a Foreign Service Officer, but I make it my business to keep as current as I am able on what’s shakin’ in terms of safety and security issues. I have worked for FSOs who survived embassy bombings and I know people who have had to evacuate their posts and leave everything behind. The State Department isn’t the military, but that does not mean we don’t sometimes have to deal with matters of life and death.

Example: Of late, there is a lot of squawking concerning the recent event in Benghazi, Libya, where four Americans were killed. I cannot know for sure what happened, but, from talking to and reading the opinions of people I trust, I have deduced the following: Intelligence is not always accurate, events cannot always be predicted, and the “fog of war” generally tends to render any situation FUBAR. So when I hear pundits and politicians spinning the deaths of these four American diplomats/citizens as “Benghazi-gate” even before all the facts are in, I have my doubts as to their sincerity.

Many of these suddenly concerned citizens consider the State Department a haven for elitist pinkos, feckless liberals, and even godless “communists.” DOS budgets, including funds for security, are constantly under siege. And yet, due entirely to the fact that a Democratic administration is in charge during an election year, these same chowderheads are suddenly our BFFs, railing about a cover-up “worse than Watergate.” One FOX-based jackass actually offered up the following: “Did we trade off – and I have no evidence of this – did we trade off the lives of our ambassador and three other Americans for that crowd? and “Were these people expendable as part of a Mid East foreign policy?”

Really. REALLY? Perdóneme, but that is some mierda de toro escandalosa (outrageous bullshit). Exactly how ridiculous is the wingnut “Benghazi-gate” meme? So ridiculous that Republican icon and former Secretary of State Condi Rice, to her credit, has called them out on it. This “cover-up worse than Watergate” postulation is cynical drivel. They know it and so should we all.

I apologize for getting all up in this, but sometimes the mendacity is just too much. Foreign Service Officers are skilled, motivated, patriotic Americans doing important work for our country. They deserve recognition and support whether it’s politically expedient or not; and, IMHO, exploiting their deaths for the sake of political opportunism is utterly vile.

OK, I’m done. Thanks for hearing me out.

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #06

Bulletins From BA #06

15 October 2012

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

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“Museo Evita”

La primavera (spring) has at last arrived in Buenos Aires and I’m really ready for it. Not that el invierno (winter) here is all that grim. Indeed, the past three months have been fairly mild; although it is somewhat amusing to watch the porteños, world-class wusses when it comes to cold weather, layer up in quilted outerwear at the slightest provocation.

But with la primavera comes more foliage, more birding, and more women’s spring fashions, featuring less actual clothing. From my admittedly limited perspective, women in BA are generally a pretty stylish lot and do not mind at all if you notice. The men, however, except for older gentlemen in suits and scarves, normally tend to dress like Americans; that is to say, schlubs. Like me.

Fashion aside, the past few weeks have been pretty interesting. Anne has been out of town quite a lot on bidness and tending to family affairs, so I have been left solo to run amuck. It’s been fun. I enjoyed homemade empanadas (¡Más excelente!) with an engaging assortment of characters at the casa of a tango instructor/author and her partner, played music at an Embassy event at which hundreds of American expats (including me) cast their absentee ballots for the Nov. 6 election, and - hang on to your sombreros - had my first actual gig.

The short version: The husband of AJ’s predecessor, which makes him my predecessor, I suppose, was muy amable (very kind) in giving me potential contacts in Buenos Aires. One of those contacts is Stephen Page, an ex-Marine Security Guard married to an Argentine mujer (woman). Being a poet (as well as a Detroit Tigers fan and all-around good guy), he arranged a poetry/music event featuring the two of us and an expat Vietnamese-American poetess.

The setting for this auspicious occasion was the Ernesto Sabato Fundación, the late Señor Sabato being one of Argentina’s most celebrated writers. It was a high-class catered affair with wine and excellent hors d'oeuvres, and the place was packed. I confess to a bit of nervousness at the notion of performing tango on the acordeón for an audience of porteños, but I played respectably and they were most gracious. Even managed to sell a few CDs. En total, the event was un gran éxito (a great success) and the Fundación organizers were very pleased.

In other news, things are shaping up nicely here at apartamento 9-A of our edificio (building), the Victoria del Libertador. (Seriously; we even have a sign.) The Embassy “Welcome Kit” is gone, art is on the walls, and we’re getting a big-ass TV to replace the one we shipped that doesn’t work here. (Blew the mission on that one, I did.) Now if we can score one more twin bed from GSO, we’ll be ready for visitors.

Also, too, all of my security clearance paperwork has finally been submitted into the system, so, with a bit of luck, I might actually start working at the Embassy relatively soon. Meanwhile, I have a pile of music, tango and otherwise, that requires a boatload of practice.

Best of all, Anne is off the road for a while, so we can, you know, do stuff together. And just in time for la primavera.

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #05

Bulletins From BA #05

24 September 2012

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

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“BA-Statuary 1” "BA-Aguas Corriente”

Well, it’s just been crazy busy around here since the last posting, although I’m pleased to report that much has been accomplished in several areas.

Domestic – A.J. and I finally received our ridiculously large shipment (131 boxes) from the States; so for three days, we did basically nothing but unpack, arrange/store stuff, and break down boxes for collection by the cartoneros. These are the folks (sometimes entire families) who pick out recyclables and haul them away on large pushcarts. I must say, we did a pretty good job arranging this shipment. There was definitely more “Oh, I’m so glad to see that.” than “What the hell were we thinking?”

Employment – I have applied for a position as “Rover Secretary” at the Embassy; basically the same gig I had in South Africa where I worked in the Temp Pool. I had to reapply for a Top Secret Squirrel Security Clearance, so if you get a call from the Feds, don’t panic. Just tell them what a hard-working, law-abiding, all-purpose American I am. You know it’s true.

Tourism – We have seen much more of Buenos Aires, including arguably the most beautiful building in town, that being El Palacio de las Aguas Corriente (The Palace of Flowing Waters); or, less highfalutinly, the water works. Completed in 1894, the palace still functions as a pumping station and houses water company offices, as well as a small museum. Featuring, I might add, an excellent display of toilets.

We also took a bus tour organized by the CLO (Community Liaison Office), spending several hours shlepping from one tourist highlight to the next. It was fun, and gave us a better feel for the topografía de la ciudad and a preview of places we might want to visit again.

Culture – Anne and I had the great good fortune of scoring tickets to a musical event entitled “Troilo Compositor,” a tribute to Anibal Troilo, the extraordinary bandoneonist, director de orquesta y… compositor. The program took place at Teatro Maipo, a charming place in el distrito de los teatros, with, as is the accepted custom in Buenos Aires, seats designed by Torquemada. Not just uncomfortable, mind you. Agonizing.

[Sidebar and Rant: This is one of the most sophisticated cities in the world - “La París de Sudamérica” - and a magnet for performing artists. In my opinion, forcing audiences to endure truly horrible seating is disrespectful, not just to paying customers, but also to performers. It’s difficult to focus attention on the stage when you are in pain. Custom, my ass.]

The concierto was, thankfully, magnificence itself. Thirteen músicos virtuosos, the youngest of whom is my age (65), each played a Troilo composition on Troilo’s actual bandoneon. (The bandoneon is an accordion-like instrument that is the instrumental soul of tango.) Fourteen players were scheduled to appear, but one maestro had passed away only days before the show. His performance on a previous concert video was shown, however, and brought the house down.

I have heard the bandoneon live on a few occasions, but this was an altogether different experience. These men brought literally centuries of experience, emotion, and musical intelligence to the stage. The porteños in the audience, many of the same older generation as the músicos (musicians), listened deeply and responded with fervent respect and enthusiasm.

For my part, I came away with a profound appreciation for the bandoneon and the music of Anibal Troilo. Not that I have any inclination to seriously take up the instrument; it’s a bit late in the game for that. But I was inspired to absorb as much of the essence of the evening’s music as possible and incorporate it into my own playing. And to keep playing until the end. Música es vida.

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #04

Bulletins From BA #04

31 August 2012

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

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"BA Buildings (1)"

So, last week we are walking home after a lovely brunch with colleagues in the 29^th floor apartment of Anne’s boss. Great view, interesting people, excellent chow… all in all, a delightful morning. Naturalmente, it could not last. A large bird, we suspect an opportunistic pigeon, was waiting in the trees. I won’t subject you to a detailed description; suffice it to say that the fowl’s accuracy was unerring and the payload copious. But in the city, where pigeons and people must coexist, this sort of thing will happen.

So, this past Saturday, Anne and I were walking along Avenida del Libertador and decided to stop and take a photo of a statue of Evita Duarte Peron. As we approached, we became aware that we had been splattered yet again with a noxious substance. Naturalmente, I suspected fowl play. (Sorry, but it had to be said.) Fortuitously, a couple behind us was Johnny-on-the-spot offering to help us clean up the gunk. And, if possible, rob us blind.

Here’s the official State Department description: “A common scam is to spray mustard or a similar substance on the tourist from a distance. A pickpocket will then approach the tourist offering to help clean the stain, and while doing so, he or an accomplice robs the victim.” Now, A.J. and I are not a couple of rubes. We’ve made our way through two tours overseas and pay close attention to security briefings. So, we held on to our stuff and walked away. It was a disconcerting experience, but only a hassle, not a tragedy.

[Sidebar: The perpetrators were subsequently apprehended by sharp-eyed members of the Policía Federal Argentina (A.P.F.) and our accounts taken by a young, solicitous, and muy guapo (handsome) policeman named Dominguez. What became of the perps, I cannot say. But Anne and I returned to our apartment, changed clothes, and resolutely sallied forth once more.]

Our destination was El Ateneo Grand Splendid, possibly the most beautiful librería (bookstore) on the planet. Espléndido, indeed. (I’ve posted a few photoz that only begin to it justice.) If you ever come to Buenos Aires, this place should be in your Top 10… maybe Top 5. I plan to return and perhaps, if I learn to read español well enough, purchase a text on la historia del tango.

[Sidebar: At El Ateneo, I acquired a double CD set of orchestral tango music by Osvaldo Pugilese y Su Orquesta. Maestro Pugliese (1905-1995) did not fool around: Grand piano, multiple bandoneons, and acres of strings. Wondrous music, and muy dramático even by Argentine standards.]

Speaking of music, we recently attended a concert, co-sponsored by the Cultural Affairs Office, featuring four pianists - three Americans and one Argentine. The concert was held at the Fortabat Museum, which houses the private art collection of María Amalia Sara Lacroze Reyes Oribe de Fortabat Pourtale, aka Amalita Fortabat (1921-2012), former patron of the arts and richest woman in Argentina. The museum is located on Dique (Dock) 4 in the Puerto Madero area, a huge landscape of reclaimed waterfront that inevitably warrants further investigation.

Capsule Concert Review: The speeches seemed to go on and on, and the seats absolutamente aspirado (sucked), but the musicians presented a varied, entertaining, and extremely well accomplished programme. And, during el intervalo (intermission), we took the opportunity to view some of la colección de arte, which is truly maravillosa. Señora Fortabat did not fool around.

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #03

Bulletins From BA #03

11 August 2012

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

Submitted for your consideration: Some miscellaneous, perchance diverting newsy items, with a “hat tip” (h/t) to a few of our steadfast readers. Disfruten (Enjoy).

This Week in Adult Education… Español lessons are paying off big time. I have recently added the following muy useful phrases to my repertorio: “Perdóneme, mi español es patético.” (Pardon me, my Spanish is pathetic.); “Lo siento, tiene el numero equivocado.” (I’m sorry, you have the wrong number.); y “Por favor, cuidado con la caca de perro.” (Please, watch out for the dog poop.)

Incidentally, I have it on good authority that the choice of “Argentine” vs. “Argentinian” when referring in English to a citizen of Argentina can be a delicate topic. So, in the interest of etymological diplomacy, I consulted several allegedly reputable sources. Though by no means unequivocal, the consensus is that Argentine is the correct demonym (noun) and Argentinian the correct adjectival form. (h/t: Lisa Q.)

Sports Report… The Olympics were not quite as big a deal in Argentina as in Los Estadios Unidos (EE.UU.), but coverage was still extensive, especially for basketball, field hockey, and tennis player Juan Martín Del Potro. But the most impressive athlete I’ve seen here was a young hombre in dark clothing on roller skates delivering a pizza while talking on his cell phone. At night. In the rain. I gave him a 9.5. (Would have been a 10, if he had been wearing sunglasses.)

Breaking News… The American Embassy has been relegated to 2^nd Place in the ongoing “Ugliest Building in Buenos Aires” competition. Your new leader? La Biblioteca Nacional (National Library) de la República Argentina. A building designed in the “brutalist” style. Truly.

Fun Facts About Animals… The carpincho (capybara), source of fine pelts for deluxe fashions (re: Bulletin #02), is the world’s largest rodent. They are gentle, gregarious, semiaquatic herbivores, typically weighing up to 68 kilos (150 lbs.). In Venezuela, carpinchos are harvested for food during Lent, owing to a 16^th century Papal dispensation classifying them as “fish.” Or so the story goes. I think they’re cute and I want one. (h/t: Megan R.)

Speaking of wildlife, the parks of Buenos Aires are home to several species of parrots. We haven’t done our birding due diligence yet, but there are a boatload of green parrots (technically, parakeets) inhabiting the trees around the embassy, just hanging out and yakking it up; which is very entertaining, by the way. I suspect they’re talking caca about the perros.

Musical Notes… (sorry, can’t help it)… Osvaldo Pugliese (1905-1995) was a legendary pianist, composer, and tango orchestra leader. He is so beloved among porteño musicians that any bad mojo, in which they believe mightily, can be repelled by saying “Pugliese, Pugliese, Pugliese” muy rápido. (h/t: Jeff H.)

Finally... The first (and smaller) of our two shipments from the States has arrived and our joy knows no bounds. Well, some bounds, but at least I’ve been reunited with my trusty toolbox, Anne with her good kitchen knives, and we now have bath towels that actually absorb water.

[Sidebar – For the uninitiated, FSOs (Foreign Service Officers) and their families newly arrived at post are issued a “Welcome Kit,” a giant footlocker chock full of household stuff. It’s actually a very nice service and we are sincerely appreciative. That said, some of the items are of better quality than others; for instance, our ironing board has a major dent in the center and a port list. Not good. But, it is a crisis of luxury, so we make do. And when the last (and exponentially larger) of our two shipments finally clears customs, we’ll pack up the ol’ WK and bid it a fond adios.]

¡Adelante!

Rodger