Postings from Pretoria #35

27 June 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

World Cup Report #2

Speaking as a formerly casual but currently dedicated-if-not-obsessed follower of the 2010 World Cup, the last 15 days or so have been pretty darned interesting.

USA! USA! USA! - A.J. and I scored tickets to the USA-Algeria Group C match at Loftus Versfeld here in Pretoria, and it was thrilling. This was the first (and possibly last) futbol match of any kind I’ve ever attended and we surely got our money’s worth. Both teams played well, the refs were pretty consistent, and our seats (lower level, smack on the goal line) provided us with a splendid view of Landon Donovan’s winning stoppage time goal.

[Sidebar: The vuvuzelas weren’t as overwhelming as we anticipated, although we took earplugs with us to mitigate the buzz. I wore them but, strangely, Anne, whose ears are much more sensitive than mine, didn’t.]

USA! USA! US… oh –The Americans, unfortunately, had a less than stellar effort against Ghana, the lone African nation still in contention, in the Round of 16 (“Win or go home.”). I confess to conflicting loyalties here, since I really do like Team USA, but also have a great fondness for Ghana, our home for two years. Bottom line: The Yanks were outplayed by the Black Stars, who now carry the futbol hopes of an entire continent as they advance to meet Uruguay in the quarter finals. Viva Ghana!

Speaking of Big-Ass Continents – My dream of an all-Korea final is in tatters. Only Japan still stands.

Viva América! – At this writing, the following teams from the Americas (Norte y Sur) are still in contention: Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Mexico, Paraguay, and Uruguay. Viva Mexico!

And What of Europe? – England, Germany, Netherlands, Portugal, Slovakia, and Spain remain. Italy and France, both former World Cup champs, are outta here, eliminated, let it be noted, in highly entertaining and dramatic fashion.

Celebrity Sightings – Vice President Biden and former President Clinton have been sighted at matches, and Biden actually popped by the Embassy. The impact of these visits on our lives, however, has been pretty minimal. And since Team USA is no longer a contender, the rumored visit of President Obama will not take place, much to the enormous relief of all US and ZA security officials.

Host Country - The South African team, Bafana Bafana (“The Boys The Boys”), failed to advance past the group stage, although they acquitted themselves with honour by bouncing France out of the tournament. In other news: Several hundred World Cup-related criminal incidents have been reported - none of them too serious, thankfully; the threatened strike by workers at Eskom (the electric company) has not materialized… yet; and fewer cars on the road has made driving in Pretoria almost enjoyable, not unlike Atlanta in 1996.

So… so far, so good. We’re hoping that the rest of the World Cup goes splendidly and that any major drama remains confined to the pitch. (Good luck with that.) Speaking as a newly minted-if-not-rabid futbol fan, I am still pulling for Ghana or some team other than the usual suspects to win the damn thing. Viva futbol!

Onward.

Rodger

Postings from Pretoria #34

13 June 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

World Cup Report #1

Finally… the 2010 FIFA World Cup is underway. This is the first time “The World’s Largest Sporting Event” (by its own admission) has been held on African soil, so this is a VERY BIG DEAL. We have been living with the preparation, the construction, and the hype since we arrived in South Africa some 21 months ago, so it’s a palpable relief to have this clambake actually begin. Finally.

I did not grow up with soccer (as it is known in the USA), so my knowledge of and appreciation for the intricacies of the game are unavoidably lacking. I am nonetheless a big fan of any sporting activity played well and have developed great respect for football (as it is known everywhere but in the USA). And so, in the spirit of international comity, here are a few potentially illuminating, if underinformed, observations to perchance help you through.

Futbol – American football is not football. Australian football is not football. (It’s not even comprehensible.) Only soccer is football, although I prefer “futbol”. Helps avoid confusion.

FIFA – The Fédération Internationale de Football Association is the international governing body of association football, with headquarters in Zürich. FIFA is responsible for the organization and governance of major international tournaments, including the FIFA World Cup, first held in 1930. FIFA is also a soulless sports behemoth that rakes in billions of dollars in profits at the expense of local taxpayers, adversely impacts thousands of local businesses, and gives relatively little back to local communities. Not unlike the IOC, only more evil. And on steroids.

Root for North Korea – Only seven nations have ever won the World Cup - excuse me, the FIFA World Cup - and all of them are either European or South American. Enough. An all-Korean final is theoretically possible and would be wicked cool (official odds: not bloody likely), although, in the interest of requisite patriotic fervor, please note that Team USA is quite good and should go deep into the tourney. That said, I’m pulling for Ghana.

Drama on the Pitch – Since actual scoring occurs infrequently, if at all, any goal is necessarily fraught with emotion and high drama. I, however, am truly enthralled by the Wagnerian tendencies of many players to treat routine rough-and-tumble fouls as opportunities to reenact the death scene from “What’s Opera, Doc?”. Drama queens, indeed; and highly entertaining.

Make Some Noise – Futbol fanz are a noisy lot; some sing, some chant, some play drums. In South Africa, that sound you hear - the sound like a large hive of buzzing bees on steroids? – comes from tens of thousands of vuvuzelas. The vuvuzela is an inexpensive plastic trumpet, allegedly descended from the kudu horn*. Ubiquitous and unavoidable, they are loud enough to cause serious hearing damage. Anne and I will be attending exactly one match (USA vs Algeria) and we have already procured earplugs.

[Sidebar: *I say allegedly because I distinctly remember having one of these things, called a “blaster” if memory serves, when I was in high school.]

The Long View – 32 teams playing 64 matches at 9 stadia in 8 cities over 31 daze… We’re off to a good start and sincerely hope that South Africa can pull this off with as little off-field drama as possible. Keep a good thought sports enthusiasts, and I’ll keep you posted.

Onward.

Rodger

Postings from Pretoria #33

06 June 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

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“Kruger”

When we came to South Africa in September 2008, one of the first things we did was make “The List”; that being the places we wanted to visit during our all too brief tour in country. The first two were obvious: Cape Town and Kruger National Park. We’ve been to Cape Town several times, but simply hadn’t worked in Kruger until now. A.J. had, however, scheduled one last official visit to Swaziland (Postings From Pretoria #9), so we decided to extend that trip and drive to Kruger for a three-night stay.

We opted for a package deal, which included lodging, meals, and game drives, at Jock Safari Lodge, a small, very comfortable place located in the Park some 40km from the Malelane Gate, one of nine entrances. Kruger National Park (open to the public in 1927) is a very big place, encompassing some 18,989 sq km (7,332 sq mi), about the size of Israel. We wanted to see as much of it as possible in the course of five game drives.

[Sidebar: Jock Safari Lodge is named for a dog - that would be “Jock” – the subject of “Jock of the Bushveld”, written by Sir Percy Fitzpatrick, an Englishman who spent considerable time in the South African bush. I actually read the book while in Kruger, and recommend it to anyone interested in what life was like – albeit from a White man’s perspective - in the Transvaal of the 1880s.]

Climatologically, we couldn’t have picked a better time to visit. It was a bit chilly for the morning (05h30) game drives, but we layered up. And since it’s the “off season”, the roads were not jammed with hoards of tourists (like us) equipped with cameras and binoculars, stopping whenever they spotted some animals doing what they do mostly: eat, sleep, and shit. And lots of it.

Our guide was James, a very capable young man who not only excelled at spotting game, but also at disseminating really interesting scientific factoids. I won’t try you with a blow-by-blow account of our explorations, but I have posted some photoz taken with my modest snapshot camera (someday… a proper zoom lens) and offer the following highlights.

Big Game – Saw The Big 5: Lion (a couple of young males considering taking on a buffalo), buffalo (giving the lions considerable pause), leopard (very shy and hard to find), rhino (white and the much rarer black), and elephant (several breeding herds); also giraffe, zebra, wild dog, hyena, kudu, wildebeest, bushbok, and the ubiquitous impala (or as the guides refer to them, “fast food.”)

“Ferrari Safari” – Some guides tend to zoom around the park looking for the big cats. James was, thankfully, not so inclined, except on one occasion, when we received reports of a young male leopard nearby. One very wild ride later, Anne and I spotted our first, and possibly last, leopard in the wild. We followed him as he descended from his perch in a marula tree to stalk a small herd of impala, until we lost him in the bush. Magnificent.

Deep Bushveld at Night – One of our evening drives found us deep in the bush after sunset. It was cold, dark, and damp… perfect. The bushveld can be a spooky place and one tends to hallucinate all sorts of possibilities in the headlights and searchlight waving back and forth. We spotted owls, nightjars, rabbits, and a porcupine, which was tremendously exciting. Seriously.

Colourful Birding – Grey-headed Parrots, Lilac-breasted Rollers, Brown-hooded Kingfishers, and Yellow-beaked Hornbills (my favourite bird in all the world). Stunning.

Jock-like Creatures – Specifically hyenas and wild dogs. These dogs are endangered; so finding a small pack was a bit special. They were very curious and mostly ran around doing dog-like things. The hyenas were equally curious, but kept trying to find something on the bushmobile to sink their teeth into; not a frivolous concern, since a hyena can bite through even very substantial tyres.

I would be remiss not to mention that we appreciated the efforts of the lodge staff (and tipped heavily) and thoroughly enjoyed the fine company of our fellow tourists, both on game drives and at mealtimes. All in all, I’d say that we took our best shot at Kruger and everything went swimmingly. Now we’re back in Pretoria and waiting for the 2010 World Cup to begin. Hang on.

Onward.

Rodger

Postings from Pretoria #32

18 April 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

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“Mboyti”

It is with mixed feelings that I report a general settling down around our house. The good news is, I’ve started to work again at the Embassy (in my sixth position there) and am enjoying having virtual money regularly appearing in my actual checking account. The sort-of-sad news is, our excellent excursions in Southern Africa are unavoidably winding down.

Not that we’re finished entirely, of course; but between preparing for (a) the World Cup coming to ZA in June and (b) our imminent departure to Washington, DC in September, serious touristic expeditions are inevitably going to be harder to arrange.

Our most recent trip, which took place over Easter weekend, was to the Mbotyi River Lodge in the Eastern Cape; which is, incidentally, the province where Nelson Mandela was born. We started out from Durban, where we rented a car, and proceeded on an epic drive through some of the most beautiful countryside we’ve yet seen: Rolling hills covered in sugar cane giving way to fields of maize, forests of eucalyptus, and tea plantations. Stunning. And epic, because of (a) less than ideal directions and (b) the fact that Easter weekend is when the roads in ZA are most crowded.

Indeed, we were stuck in traffic in the small towns of Flagstaff (really) and Lusikisiki, surrounded my throngs of people trying to board minibus taxis to take them to wherever. But apart from the strain of avoiding running down Kamikaze pedestrians, it was a pretty nice scene. Everyone was in fine holiday spirit, even at the petrol stop, where we were treated to the sound of a taxi full of ladies dressed in white spontaneously breaking into song.

The final part of the drive, scenery aside, was quite stressful: 20 km of VERY bad road, much of it in the dark. Our rental, a mid-size saloon car, performed admirably, albeit at an average speed of roughly 12 km (7.5 mi) per hour. But make it, we did; and in time for dinner.

[Sidebar: I sincerely regret that we were unable to take more photoz of the countryside, but photography was relegated to a distant 3^rd place behind my relentless scanning for potholes and A.J.’s probability-based navigating.]

The next morning, we were able to check out just where in the world we ended up. The Lodge overlooks 1km of beautiful Indian Ocean beach at the Mbotyi River tidal estuary in an area known as the Pondoland Wild Coast. It’s a beautiful place and a regular destination for families looking for sun, surf, and fishing. It being Easter, the joint was packed, making for a colourful cultural experience. The beach was ideal for strolling and the ocean perfect for splashing about. We even saw dolphins frolicking just beyond the breakers.

All in all, a very nice weekend, although we still had to drive back out the bad road on Easter Sunday and then make haste to Durban in order to avoid an extra day’s charge on the car. But make it, we did; and with (I kid you not) exactly one minute to spare.

[Special Sidebar - Durban Sports Notes: We got a good look at the new Green Point Stadium, built expressly for the FIFA 2010 World Cup. As stadia go, it is magnificent and will look terrific on the TV.

Also, you may not know that baseball is very popular in Durban, particularly within the Indian community. In fact, we drove by the McCarthy Toyota Baseball Park, which sports several diamonds and was packed with kids. Not playing cricket.]

Onward.

Rodger

Postings from Pretoria #31

28 March 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

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“Namibia” “Namibia: Sossusvlei”

Our Namibian adventure continues.

If you plan on traveling to Namibia, be forewarned: tourism there is a very expensive proposition and it is easy to spend beaucoup bucks, even with modest accommodations. We elected to go with an inclusive package deal through a company called African Extravaganza. Following a four and a half hour return drive from Walvis Bay to Windhoek, we immediately – and I mean within minutes - embarked on a four-hour drive to the Namib Naukluft Lodge, located in the Namib Naukluft National Park.

Also making the trip were Daniel and Sonia Harel, a lovely couple from Durban, and their daughter V, visiting from London. We all ended up sharing vehicles on several occasions, and they proved to be excellent traveling companions. The highlight of the drive was our transit over the Streetshoogte Pass, described in the brochures as “scenic and steep.” Yebo.

The Lodge is not fancy, but our room was perfectly fine and the food quite decent. No TV, no internet, no problem; the desert provides all the entertainment one could wish, and we had adequate shade and a nice breeze even during the hottest part of the day. Necessarily, organized activities took place in the mornings and evenings.

Morning 1: After breakfast, A.J. and I took a two-hour stroll amongst the rocks, accompanied by Princess, a very sweet and savvy border collie. Besides being good company, Princess knew her way around, so we were never in danger of losing the trail. Upon returning, we enjoyed some quality pool time before retreating from the sun.

Evening 1: Time for a “sundowner” drive to Marble Mountain to watch the sun set. I’m sure you’re all familiar with the whole “constantly shifting colors of the desert panorama” thing. It is a beautiful sight to see. After dinner, we settled in for the evening’s entertainment: pulling up a couple of chairs outside and taking in the Milky Way in all it’s glory, contemplating our cosmological insignificance.

We are so small.

Morning 2: Anne’s birthday, the 20^th anniversary of Namibian independence, and the big adventure on our schedule: a trip to Sossusvlei (“So-soos-vlay”) to see the dunes. The Namib Desert is over 55 million years old; the oldest on the planet, and the dunes are among the most photographed geological features on Earth. Still… the sight of sand dunes up to 320 km in height is wicked awesome. And climbing one barefoot in the desert heat (topping out at 43º C – that’s 109º F) is a serious reality check. (It was observed that the texture of the sand itself is trés exquisite.)

Escaping to a shady picnic area, we had a spot of lunch, at which we were joined by a small flock of sociable weavers and a cautious black-backed jackal, before heading back to the Lodge. This drive was to prove to be the “extra” in “African Extravaganza,” as our 4WD desert-touring vehicle developed a problem with one of its cylinders. Fortunately, our driver Michael was on the case and phoned for backup. So, with grand bonhomie, A.J., myself, the Harel family, and Michael limped along on three cylinders until the cavalry arrived. We made it back none the worse and immediately succumbed to the siren song of the swimming pool.

Evening 2: One last climb up to “Sunset Rock,” followed by dinner (Oryx Cordon Bleu) and a chorus of “Happy Birthday” to Anne from the staff ladies. Then it was off to view the Milky Way, catch a couple of shooting stars, and pack for the trip back to Windhoek and on to Pretoria.

This was, in all likelihood, our last trip to Namibia, although, just in case, we have already started another list of sights to see, including the Skeleton Coast, Caprivi Strip, and Fish River Canyon. Should I ever be fortunate enough to have another go at this remarkable country, I will not hesitate.

Onward.

Rodger

Postings from Pretoria #30

26 March 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

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“Namibia” “Namibia: Sossusvlei”

When we first arrived in South Africa in 2008, A.J. and I made a list of places we wanted to visit during our two-year posting. Our record of touristic accomplishment is mixed, but I am extremely pleased to report that we have just returned from a week in one of our Top 5: Namibia; which is, IMHO, among the most physically beautiful places on Earth.

A bit of historical background: Namibians have suffered much torture and violence, notably at the hands of German colonizers (1884-1920). Following WW II, the League of Nations mandated what was then known as South West Africa to South Africa, which imposed their laws, including, after 1948, apartheid. Inevitable insurrection ensued and much black blood was spilled, but on 21 March 1990, the Republic of Namibia (Motto: “Unity, Liberty, Justice”) came into being. The German influence, however, is still pervasive, not least because of the large numbers of German tourists and retirees.

[Sidebar: Being of pink and blondish hues, I am often presumed to be an Afrikaner or German. I therefore make a point of identifying myself as an American as soon as possible when interacting with black Africans. This usually results in greater respect as well as lots of questions concerning immigration and President Barack Obama. I might have mentioned this before, but it bears repeating.]

This being a DOS bidness trip, we stayed two nights in the capital Windhoek (“Vind-hook”), a pleasant small city (and home to our current favourite beer, Windhoek Lager), then took off for the coast with several of A.J.'s colleagues to visit an American Corner in Walvis (“Valvis”) Bay, which is much more a working harbour than tourist mecca. Our hotel overlooked the Walvis Bay Lagoon, home to thousands of flamingos and the biggest f**king pelicans I have ever seen.

We also visited Swakopmund (“Swakopmund”), which is a very quaint town, and home to many of the aforementioned Deutsche pensionäre. Lunch was taken at a scenic restaurant at the foot of a lighthouse, where we were joined by three resident, and very well mannered, chickens. That evening, we dined at the Walvis Bay Yacht Club, where I scored some really excellent tourist loot. Anne and I were most reluctant to leave the coast, but we had to book it back across the desert to Windhoek, where transport awaited to take us to an altogether amazing place.

Onward.

Rodger

Postings from Pretoria #29

07 March 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

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“West Coast”

We all experience transitions, welcome/dread/endure them, and ultimately move on, like it or not. No deep existential revelations here, of course, just the musings of someone gearing up to leave somewhere he’ll likely never see again; just a bittersweet fact of life to reflect upon when considering special places.

South Africa is that kind of place and we’ve been pretty creative about seeing as much of it as we can. Our latest trip took us to the West Coast, in the Western Cape province. We flew into Cape Town for a couple of days on official DOS bidness. Then we rented a car and headed for the fishing village of Paternoster (a name bestowed by grateful shipwrecked Portuguese sailors washed up alive on the shore), located 147 km up the road, where we stayed at the Baywatch B&B (Tony and Shirley Ansley, Proprietors), a lovely place a mere two minute walk from the South Atlantic Ocean.

The landscape is stark, although there are wheat fields, cattle, and sheep; and, so I’m told, wildflowers in abundance during the spring. Mostly missing, however, are trees. When the temperature reaches 38° C (100° F) and the sun is remorseless, hiding out from late morning to early evening is a must, especially for those of us of the pale complexion persuasion.

But the area is beautiful, what with the white sun-baked buildings and long beaches conducive to strolling; although swimming is somewhat problematic, given a summer water temperature of 11º C (52º F). In addition to vacation homes and rental places (including self-catering), the nearby seashore parks provide accommodations for caravans.

Afrikaners love to caravan; not surprising, I reckon, given the migratory history of their tribe. But rather than traveling in huge RVs, they tend toward bakkies (pickup trucks) with camper tops and/or trailers, or Land Rover Defenders. A typical encampment might include a central vehicle accompanied by tents and, most importantly, a braai (BBQ). Very efficient, homey, and quite suited for camping on rocky seashores.

In addition to getting in some quality ocean time, A.J. and I took an excursion on the Berg River Estuary, a primo spot for birding. Our guide was one John Wayne (“the real John Wayne,” he would have you know), a Brit who was raised in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), and currently operates a fleet of funky tour boats in Velddrift, not far from the Cerebos Saltworks. The cruise was most enjoyable, although it was so hot that many of the birds were not to be seen, having sought refuge in the rushes. Still, we observed a fair number of flamingos and pelicans, as well as assorted smaller fowl.

We also saw, across the estuary, the longest freight train ever in my extensive trainspotting career: 12 locomotives spread out among approximately 340 wagons, each carrying 80 tons of iron ore for processing. Wicked cool.

But the most spellbinding sight came on the last night of our stay in Paternoster: the simultaneous setting of the sun and rising of the full moon. I have seen this once before, standing at the edge of a frozen lake in western Kentucky with my Cowboy Envy saddlepals. It’s a remarkable thing to experience and if you’ve not had the pleasure, I sincerely hope you someday will. Beauty beyond measure.

It’s not certain, but if this was our last trip to Cape Town and its environs, well, so it goes. In any case, it’s good to be home in Pretoria and off the road for a week. Then, we’re headed to Namibia. Just making the most of it all.

Onward.

Rodger

Postings from Pretoria #28

03 March 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

Two months between Postings seems a tad long, although I’m undoubtful that loyal readers have found productive ways to while away the weeks whilst waiting for updates. I do, in fact, have excellent excuses, having spent five weeks on the road in the U.S., followed by one day in Pretoria to recover from jetlag and repack for nine days in Kaapstad (Cape Town) and the West Coast of South Africa. Which is where I am today, living fairly largely at the Table Bay Hotel on the Victoria & Alfred (V & A) Waterfront in Cape Town (Kaapstad), where it is quite hot and very windy.

The trip Stateside came off remarkably well, thanks largely to family, friends, and fellow musicians. The flight over took 16.5 hours, transited seven time zones (and five movies), and whisked me from pleasant summer to dreary winter. I subsequently flew, in short order, to Louisville, KY and Los Angeles, CA, resulting in an internal clock so messed up that I decided to become my own time zone. This proved to be a logistically salutary delusion, considering how miserable domestic air travel in the U.S. has, IMHO, become.

Extortive Delta baggage fees, “kabuki” security screenings, and lousy airline seats aside, I had a wonderful visit to the homeland. Some highlights:

Stone Mountain, GA – Got to pal around with LaBanana, who is in the midst of her own international travels.

Louisville, KY – Spent time with my Mom and both my brothers. Doesn’t happen often.

Los Angeles, CA – Played a concert with Cowboy Envy for 1,400 people and had the best mole poblano ever in a little joint on the Redondo Beach Pier. Also took in the Museum of the American West at the Autry National Center (On display: The Lone Ranger’s outfit! And Tonto’s, too!), visited with chums from the ATL, and enjoyed ridiculously good Chinese take-out and poker with the cowgirls.

Tucker, GA – The “Main Squeeze Deux” Album Release Concert came off very well indeed. Collaborated with my peeps, visited with people whom I really like, and even sold some CDs. (Not to worry: I have plenty left. In fact, if you haven’t already bought one, you should. Ask me how.)

Pine Lake, GA – Picked up an impromptu gig with Joyce Brookshire, Elise Witt, and others. Good folks and real country music.

Atlanta, GA – The 32^nd Annual Groundhog Day Jugglers Festival. ‘Nuff said.

Clarkesville, GA – Super Bowl party featuring an orange menu (pizza, wings, Cheez-Its, and crunchy Cheetos) and a great victory by the New Orleans Saints. Nothing against Peyton Manning, but the Saints, and their city, were f#@king due.

Daphne, AL – Played accordion for the old folks, including Anne’s Mom, at Mercy Medical. I’ve played at dozens of senior centers, retirement homes, and medical care facilities in my checkered career, and it’s always a bit tough. And always worthwhile.

New Orleans, LA – Hooked up with las grandes amigas for Mardi Gras 2010. A Classic. Huge crowds of revelers who had been partying since the Super Bowl, picturesque parades with lotz of loot, and exceptional food, drink, and music. I’d like to live there some day, albeit keeping in mind some cautionary words from a very wise man: “New Orleans will not save you from yourself.”

Pensacola, FL – Shacked up on the 15^th floor of a high rise overlooking Pensacola Beach (the best beach in America) and joined in the festivities surrounding the nuptials of A.J.’s remaining eligible unmarried niece. Family fun with a nice bunch of relatives.

So… sorry if I missed you on this go-round, but we’re back in South Africa until September, when we ship out for the District of Columbia. I fully realize how fortunate I am to have these travel opportunities and intend to make the most of them. And, rest assured, I will continue to periodically inflict these modest travelogues on all of you. Thanks for your indulgence and comments.

Onward.

Rodger

Postings from Pretoria #27

09 January 2010

Hello there... Rodger French here.

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“Malapo”

I hope your Holidaze were enjoyable and that your New Year has arrived accompanied by some appropriate mix of relief and anticipation. A.J. and I did some traveling, visiting the Sondelo Nature Reserve (and Wildlife Centre) for Christmas and Malapo Country House, just down the road from Blyde River Canyon (a breathtaking place), after New Year’s. We faced down holiday traffic, torrential rains, and ubiquitous potholes… and returned safe and/or sound.

The big news, in case the grapevine doesn’t run by your place, is that Anne has gotten her next assignment. It’s for two years beginning in September, and definitely a hardship post: Washington, DC. I know, I know… how bad can it be; at least there’s a common currency and language. And we’ll be closer to our U.S. family and friends, not to mention all our possessions currently in storage and in desperate need of reorganization. And I am looking forward to decent bike trails and first-run cinemas. This is all good.

The downside is that housing is heinously expensive, DOS logistical support is basically bupkis, and 2010 is a mid-term election year. But I’ve decided to try approaching our DC assignment as I would any foreign posting: Enjoy the good stuff (free museums, proximity to NYC and New England, Ethiopian food), try to avoid danger (teabaggers, downtown ATMs, the Beltway), and generally ignore things that are just plain annoying (the “Village” media, the U.S. Senate, The Capital Steps). It is also my avowed plan to continue these postings under the sobriquet “Dispatches from D.C.”

Meanwhile, we will be coming separately to the States for “R & R” (Rest & Relaxation… possibly Rock & Roll) very soon. I arrive in the ATL on January 21, whereupon I will be engulfed in a frenzy of musical events, about which you will unavoidably be hearing more. A.J. joins me in February and we’re off to the Gulf Coast in pursuit of merriment, specifically Mardi Gras in Nuevo Orleans and a family wedding in Pensacola.

Then it’s back to South Africa, where, in our remaining few months here, we will endeavor to travel to as many places as possible still on our “must visit” list, Namibia being destinazione turistica primaria. And, of course, the 2010 World Cup begins in June, so the Mission is already becoming a beehive of hyperalert activity. I fully expect to be working steadily soon after our return. Personally, I think it’s going to be a memorable time to be in ZA and am most grateful for the opportunity to be part of it. I hope the South Africans pull this off; it could be a great boost for their country.

Meanwhile, we’re slogging through yet another ”wildcat” strike by rubbish collectors (probably the same people who stole one of our bins), summer vacation (the “silly season”) is over, so every motor vehicle in Gauteng Province is back on the roadways-still-under-construction, and President Jacob Zuma just took another wife. Business as usual.

See (some of) you soon. Onward.

Rodger

Postings from Pretoria #26

30 November 2009

Hello there... Rodger French here.

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“Amalinda” – “Bulawayo”

Our visit to Zimbabwe continues:

Day 3 – Breakfast

[Digression: If you ever decide to visit Zimbabwe - or anywhere in southern Africa, for that matter - you will surely encounter the “Full English Breakfast.” For the uninitiated, this consists of a choice of juices, cereals, yoghurt, fruit, cheeses, and cold meats followed by eggs, bacon, sausage, baked beans, stewed tomatoes, and toast with butter and jam. And coffee or tea, thank you very much indeed.]

Thus impossibly fortified, it was off to the National Art Gallery and an art contest for local schoolchildren sponsored by the U.S. Embassy’s Public Affairs Office based in Harare, the subject being “Climate Change.” Many of the submissions were quite artistic, if a tad on the apocalyptic side. Winners were announced, awards presented, and refreshments served. Afterward, I had a fine time touring the galleries and workshops, and managed not to part with all of my cash, seeing as how we had big plans that evening.

That would be dinner with our DOS chums at The Cattleman (Motto: “Our Reputation Is At Steak.”). Old West theme, Calgary Stampede and American beer/jeans posters, cowgirl cheesecake in the men’s room… in short, a classic. The waiters have worked there for years and are entertaining as well as efficient. The owner made the rounds extolling the virtues of his homemade chili sauce, a concoction that demanded maximum respect. And the steaks - I enjoyed a medium-rare 12 oz (340 g) sirloin – were perfectly grilled and simply splendid. Those cows did not die in vain.

Day Next – Anne had one last official duty to attend to, and then we had a rather long, but uneventful travel day, making our way back home in good form. I enthusiastically encourage anyone who is interested in visiting Africa to consider Zimbabwe as a destination. It is a physically beautiful place and Zimbabweans are very nice people who, despite all their problems, remain cautiously optimistic about the future. After all, nothing lasts forever. Not even Robert Mugabe.

Bonus Exposition – I feel compelled to acknowledge the many interesting men, Black and White, with whom I shared handshakes and brief, but surprisingly substantial conversations. Listed chronologically, for what it’s worth:

Ivan – Firefighter from Vancouver who was making his way solo from Kilimanjaro to Cape Town. A real sport and worthy traveling companion.

Billy – Our excellent host/guide at Camp Amalinda. He was off to JoBurg to collect his wife (Priscilla) and their newborn (?) and return to the bush.

Phil – Hotelier and owner (with wife Sharon) of Camp Amalinda and The Bulawayo Club.

Innocent – A fine gentleman, and a most solicitous and expert guide for my walking tour of Bulawayo.

Nelson – Assistant Yardmaster with the NRZ who took us on a mini-tour of the railroad freight yards.

Tim – Public Affairs Officer (PAO) in Harare. A very sharp and empathetic guy; definitely ambassador material.

Pete – Billy’s Father-in-Law and a farmer who has lost 75% of his land since Mugabe’s politically motivated and economically disastrous “land reform” in 2000.

Oscar – Independent journalist being harassed for investigating links between government officials and the systematic poaching of wildlife.

J.J. – Embassy motorpool driver.

Our next major African expedition looks to be Namibia in March 2010, but count on my checking in between now and then. As always, thanks for your patience and kind attention.

Onward.

Rodger