Bulletins From BA #16

Bulletins From BA #16

06 agosto 2013

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

Photo Update Alert: www.picasaweb.google.com/rodger.french

“BA Interiors 1”

It’s August. Time to do some catching up…

Last night, we received our first robocall from a candidate soliciting support in Argentina’s upcoming legislative elections. (Since the message was in español, it was considerably less irritating than one might expect.) A contentious campaign season is upon us, with August primaries and a general election to be held on 27 October. Argentina is in something of a mess, but no American citizen deserves the luxury of condescension when it comes to matters of dysfunctional governance.

In other news this month, I have a performance scheduled for 13 agosto at ICANA (Instituto Cultural Argentina Norteamericano). This will be the final programme funded by a grant from the Public Affairs section of U.S. Embassy Argentina. That’s eight juggling workshops and four solo concerts in four different cities, which, for you concerned taxpayers, is excellent cultural diplomacy and darned good value for the money.

[Here’s a link, in case you’re sufficiently interested.]

August is an eventful month for DOS people living in the Southern Hemisphere. It’s summer vacation time in America and many diplomats (especially those with niños) take their annual leave now, which inevitably results in staffing complications. It is also transfer season, with a whole boatload of comings and goings. And since winter break has just ended for Argentines, the joint is jumping and there’s work to be done.

As a result of this standard temporal bifurcation, I am picking up a lot of work at the Embassy, filling in as needed. And, por supuesto (of course), Anne is still gallivanting all over South America doing her job. We seem to require a “calendar meeting” every four hours but, that’s what we signed up for.

And while we’re on that topic, I want to respond to those of you who have expressed kindly concern about our well-being in the wake of the temporary closings of U.S. embassies and consulates in the Middle East and elsewhere. It is my experience that the State Department responds to credible security threats with an abundance of caution; not an imprudent strategy, particularly given that the period of August through 9/11 is a time of exceptional volatility. Also, I counsel skepticism regarding the meme that precautionary embassy closings somehow constitute ”surrender to terrorism.” This is no more than cynically opportunistic bull. Also, shit.

That said, A.J. and I are quite muy bien. Moreover, our first actual guests are actually scheduled to visit in September and we’re looking forward to showing them the sights of Buenos Aires. Más pronto y ¡Feliz agosto!

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #15

Bulletins From BA #15

30 junio 2013

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

Photo Update Alert: www.picasaweb.google.com/rodger.french

“Cementerio de la Chacarita”

If you’re interested in Argentine history, one of the places you have to visit in Buenos Aires is the Cementerio de la Chacarita, also known as the National Cemetery. Anne and I previously visited Cementerio de la Recoleta, which is downtown, compact, and crowded with turistas. Chacarita is located in the western part of Buenos Aires and is a much larger and quieter city of the departed. It is also the site of the tomb of Carlos Gardel, who died tragically in a plane crash in 1935.

It is impossible to overestimate Gardel’s importance to Argentina. He was a brilliant singer, gifted composer, and genuine Latin superstar. Historical comparisons can be dicey, but in some Spanish-speaking countries of Latin and South America, Carlos Gardel was as idolized in his day as Elvis Presley or Michael Jackson were in theirs. 78 years on, many people, mostly locals, still make the pilgrimage to his gravesite, where they honour him by placing a lighted cigarette between the fingers of his statue. A fitting tribute, if kind of gross.

[Musical Sidebar - For my part, I have managed to learn and memorize two of Gardel’s most beautiful and famous compositions: “El Día Que Me Quieras” and “Por Una Cabeza.” When I play them, my breath and that of my accordion become one. (Por favor, perdona el interludio rapsódico.)]

Speaking of tango, last evening, A.J. and I went to a performance of Orquesta de Tango del IUNA (Instituto Universitario Nacional del Arte), a 13-piece ensemble that performs classic arrangements from the 1930s and 40s. Listening to a real orchestra play this wonderful music is a thrilling experience and the ensemble was excellent.

There was, inevitably, a catch. The venue is a converted house, so the performance space is bifurcated, with one room facing the musicians and the other room facing stage left. As a musician, I found this arrangement to be the stuff of nightmares. Also, the sound suffered somewhat from the fact that every surface in both rooms was reflective. Nonetheless, the group played con brio and the packed house was most appreciative. And, the concert was free and the venue is a five-minute walk from our apartment, so…

In other news, we’re headed Stateside on July 4, after the humongous official reception at the Ambassador’s residence. This is a business trip, since Anne has a conference in DC. Afterward, we’ll go to Fairhope, AL for a few days for visits and appointments, and then fly back to BA. FYI, we do expect to return to the U.S. in December for R & R and a longer visit, during which we’ll have more time to make the grand circuit and catch up with family and friends.

Meanwhile, hasta luego; and if you aren’t familiar with the music of Carlos Gardel, I sincerely recommend that you check it out. La música es la vida.

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #14

Bulletins From BA #14

02 junio 2013

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

Photo Update Alert: www.picasaweb.google.com/rodger.french

“Salta”

It’s a quiet Sunday here on Avenida del Libertador; just an elderly miniature poodle named Sam and myself lounging on the luxurious State Department furniture. We eat, we doze, we watch TV, and I occasionally take Sam out to pee on unsuspecting curbs. We are currently living very comfortable, boring lives. There are, of course, explanations.

1. Anne is attending a conference this week in Santiago, Chile and running amok with her sister IROs.

2. Sam’s humans have gone to the States to tend to some sad, though not unexpected, family matters, leaving us (meaning me) with doggie duties.

3. A combination of age, stress, and exertion has left me with severe back pain, the kind of severe back pain that requires spending as much time as possible in prone positions. (My condition is, thankfully, improving daily.)

This state of lethargy is assuredly a radical departure from the past few weeks. For example, Anne was the Embassy’s point person for The 39^th Buenos Aires International Book Fair, so she and, to a certain extent, I (being her wingman) were all up in it for three weeks. It was un gran éxito (a great success) and A.J. and the entire Public Affairs Section were cubierto de gloria (covered in glory).

Then, not altogether inexplicably, I landed a grant to teach juggling workshops and present accordion concerts at several BNCs (Binational Centers) in the NW provinces of Argentina. Since Anne was due to visit these places anyway, we teamed up and took our act on the road.

There was no shortage of drama at the outset. The customized juggling props (beanbags embossed with the Embassy logo) did not arrive from the States until the day before we were due to depart. This necessitated us transporting a very large/heavy prop bag in addition to a very large/heavy accordion in a very large/heavy flight case. But, OK, that’s part of the deal.

Not part of the deal was a wildcat strike by airline baggage handlers that forced us to (a) reschedule our departure, (b) reclaim our already checked large/heavy baggage, and (c) return home only to come back the following day and hope for the best. Fortunately, our second attempt to get out of Buenos Aires was successful.

The rest of the week went like clockwork. We even managed to work in a long day of touring in the mountains NW of Salta, not far from Bolivia. It is a beautiful, stunningly desolate area, inhabited by people decidedly not of European extraction. There is also a lot less oxygen that we are use to. More than once, I had to remind myself to don’t forget to breath. (En español: “No te olvides de respirar.”)

Salta itself is a lovely little city, and very tourist oriented. The visit to the Salta BNC - indeed, all the BNCs - went swimmingly. The workshop students were invariably polite and attentive, in spite of some space and time constraints, and took instruction well. A few actually learned to juggle. They were also very tolerant of (and amused by) my less than fluent español.

The audiences for the concerts, a mix of students, faculty, and the public, were enthusiastic and curious. The program itself was quite popular (especially the tangos, naturally) and prompted mucho interest. At each BNC, audience members, mostly students, stayed on after the concert, posing for photoz and asking all sorts of questions until the place closed.

[Musical Sidebar - Interestingly, many of the students did not know of Carlos Gardel (www.todotango.com/english/gardel) and his importance to Argentine and South American culture, although they responded muy emocionalmente to his music. I did my best to elucidate.]

Fortunately, we had had sufficient foresight to engage a tour operator to schlep our baggage and us from town to town. From Salta, we drove to Tucuman, a fairly large and bustling city surrounded by sugar cane fields and, finally, to Santiago del Estero, a surprisingly nice little town in the middle of nowhere. Eventually, we made our way back to Tucuman and caught our return flight to BA. Without incident, I’m happy to report.

And now, here we are, a man and a dog, in the throes of transitory ennui. Pardon me, but Sam and I are off once more in search of unsullied curbs.

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #13

Bulletins From BA #13

30 marzo 2013

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

Photo Update Alert: www.picasaweb.google.com/rodger.french

“El Calafate” "Helsingfors” “Lago Argentino” ”Perito Moreno”

[Continued from Bulletins From BA #12]

Día 4 - Return to El Calafate

Our ride from Helsingfors back to El Calafate wasn’t due until 14h00, and we planned to just hang out and recover from our previous exertions, maybe get in a gentle stroll. But when our guide offered to escort us to scenic “Windy Point” for one last view of the glacier, we said OK… why the heck not.

The hike was longer than we expected, though not extreme. But the wind… el viento en la Patagonia can be muy fuerte (fierce). It originates over the Océano Pacífico and races unimpeded over Andean ice for many kilometers, ultimately arriving at Helsingfors. Whereupon it kicks your ass and takes your name. It was decidedly not a stroll, but this last outing perfectly culminated our visit to this enchanting place.

[Shameless Musical Sidebar - I took the liberty of donating to the Helsingfors music library a copy of my CD. I’m pleased to report that it was a hit and immediately placed into heavy rotation.]

We eventually returned in El Calafate in good order, checked in to el Hotel Kosten Aike once more, and promptly went out for pizza.

Día 5 - Lago Argentino Cruise / Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

(www.losglaciares.com/en)

During my stint in the Navy, sea duty was the one thing that made the tedium of military life tolerable. I loved being a sailor - the open water, the sea spray, the whole nine yards. So when Anne suggested that we book a daylong crucero (cruise) on a small boat, I readily concurred. We were conveyed to “La Soledad,” berth of the good ship Leal, a 20 m vessel with a complement of ten passengers and three crew. Also, a guide. And a chef.

The Leal set out across Lago Argentino into a cold Patagonian headwind. After motoring amongst the icebergs at Glaciar Upsala, we cruised to Glaciar Spegazzini, where we were fêted with a superb five-course gourmet lunch (almuerzo). After dining, we took a side trip to Puesto de las Vacas (“Post of the Cows”), where we disembarked and strolled (Sí, strolled) to the deserted outpost of a once gran estancia. Finally, back to port, where we left our hosts with a fond farewell and a generous gratuity. This crucero was our great indulgence of the week. At least.

Día 6 - Perito Moreno Glacier 

(www.patagonline.com/perito-moreno-glacier)

Glaciar Perito Moreno is the principle atracción turística in the area. It is located some 78 km from El Calafate and is named in honour of Francisco Moreno (www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francisco_Moreno), a prominent explorer, anthropologist, archaeologist, and academic (“Perito” is a title meaning “expert”), who was instrumental in incorporating large swaths of Patagonia into Argentina. Glaciar Perito Moreno has become a tourist mecca because it is easy to reach and, unlike many glaciers in this current epoch of global warming, actually advancing.

There are three options for viewing el glaciar: (1) from the crowded deck of a big-ass tour boat (in a 40 knot wind? Sign me up), (2) from the excellent system of shoreline catwalks (Strolling? Sí), and (3) from the actual surface of the glacier, clad in rented crampons (Another time, perhaps). It was a gray, wet, and windy day, but that did not detract from la magnificencia de la vista panorámica. I have never seen anything like it and hope one day to have an opportunity to return. It. Was. Awesome.

Día 7 - El Calafate to BA

Our final day in El Calafate was muy tranquilo. Since the flight to BA was not scheduled to depart until 19h30, we had plenty of time to pack, have lunch, do some small souvenir shopping, and take a stroll (¡Sí!) through Laguna Nimez Reserva Municipal, a nearby expanse of wetlands on Lago Argentino. It is a lovely place, home to a variety of bird life (including flamingos!) and other critters, and the perfect coda for this aventura Patagónica.

So now, having sorted through hundreds of emails and several loads of laundry, we’re back into our Buenos Aires expat urban groove, cognizant of the fact that we are fortunate indeed to still have the ability and the means to engage in periodic viajes excelentes. This is something to be cherished and on no account taken for granted. Thanks for letting me share with you.

Bonus Posting Exclusive: Pope Update - Many of you have inquired as to my take on the selection of Jorge Mario Bergoglio, the archbishop of Buenos Aires, as the new Pope, Francis I. From my perspective as an avowed heathen, this can only mean that Argentina now has a lock on the entire Holy Trinity: Father (Papa Francisco Primero), Son (Lionel Messi), and Holy Spirit (Diego Maradona). Amen.

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #12

Bulletins From BA #12

28 marzo 2013

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

Photo Update Alert: www.picasaweb.google.com/rodger.french

“El Calafate” "Helsingfors” “Lago Argentino” ”Perito Moreno”

Anne and I have recently returned from a más excelente journey to western Patagonia, where we spent a week seeing the sights. It was a great experience and so action-packed that it will require not one, but two Postings (at no additional charge) to document passably. ¡Vamos!

We elected to book this viaje (trip) with our amigo Ricardo, since he and his agency (www.ryanstravel.com.ar) did such a fine job with the trip (viaje) to Puerto Madryn last noviembre (Bulletins From BA #08). As we expected, he incorporated our suggestions and attended to all the details, including transportation, lodging, tours, and transfers. Ricardo and his representatives took very good care of us.

Día 1 - BA to El Calafate (www.elcalafate.gov.ar)

It’s a short taxi ride from our place to Aeroparque Jorge Newbery, the domestic airline terminal in Buenos Aires. After three hours on a Boeing 737 (”The Cattle Car of the Skies”), we touched down at El Calafate International Airport, 23 km from the actual town of El Calafate, which is situated on the southern shore of Lago Argentino (el lago más grande de Argentina) and serves as the gateway to el Parque Nacional Los Glaciares and Glaciar Perito Moreno. (Much more concerning glaciers presently.)

El Calafate, named in honor of a small bush with dark blue berries (used to make a yummy jam), is lousy with all manner of turistas; many young people with large backpacks, of course, but also families as well as older adults. Like us. We opted to stay at el Hotel Kosten Aike (www.kostenaike.com.ar) near the center of town, where dining and shopping opportunities abound. After settling in, we repaired to a high-end parilla (steakhouse) and consumed mucho lamb, beef, y vino. A good start.

Día 2 - El Calafate to Helsingfors (www.helsingfors.com.ar)

Helsingfors is located 180 km north of El Calafate, with the last 70 km via a gravel road. It is not a place one casually stumbles across. The drive was quite pleasant and the closer we came to our destination, the more Tolkienesque the scenery. Helsingfors is located on Lago Viedma and was founded by Alfred Ramstrom, who named his estancia after the capital of his native country, Finland. (Seriously, read the whole story; it’s fascinating.) Anyway, the joint is very comfortable, though not luxurious, and the staff is muy amable. After stashing our belongings, we set out with our guide for a 90-minute walk around the grounds before dinner; a little “starter hike,” if you will. Later, Anne and I went out and gazed at the stars. The Milky Way shown in all its brilliance and we were filled with wonder at our great good fortune. (Lyricism is absolutely inescapable here.)

Día 3 - Helsingfors

The next morning dawned clear and cool, with an agreeable breeze; in short, a perfect day for an expedition to Laguna Azul, a glacial pool some several hours up and around… and up the mountain. Our options were: (1) Hike over two hours (mostly up), then an additional hour and a half (seriously up) or (2) transit the first part of the journey on horseback then hike the rest. Seriously up. We elected opción número dos.

[Large Mammal Sidebar - I have a problem with horses: They simply do not acknowledge or respect my authority - not that I blame them. I have ridden a grand total of four times in my whole life and lack the experience and confidence necessary to affect equine command.]

Fortunately, the horses of Helsingfors are a pretty easy-going bunch; they basically have free run of the range until they’re needed. So our gaucho guide corralled them and the next thing you know, we were saddled up and off on our gran aventura. The ride was a bit harrowing for this tenderfoot, but our steeds needed little guidance from us, so we were soon able to relax and enjoy the stunning scenery. When we had ridden as far as possible, we tied off the horses in a shady spot and continued on foot.

The hike up the mountain was long. It was difficult. It was exhausting. And it was so worth it. We had our lunch at Laguna Azul at the foot of a small glacier. We watched Andean Condors circling above. We took photos and left footprints. It was magical.

The hike back down the mountain, being gravity-assisted, was somewhat less arduous. Still, I have never been so glad to get on a horse in my entire life. As we rode back to the estancia, the infamous Patagonian wind finally began to pick up a bit, a portend of things to come; but, no worries. It had been an altogether remarkable day.

Más pronto.

Rodger