Messages From Myanmar #05

Messages From Myanmar #05

29 October 2015

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  “Thadingyut”

Hello there… Rodger French here.

One of the great perks of being posted overseas is that State Department personnel get to celebrate local holidays in addition to our own. In Argentina, where holidays were often seemingly declared for no particular reason, this resulted in numerous shorter workweeks, which is always a good thing. Myanmar, alas, has significantly fewer holidays, so we are appropriately grateful when they roll around.

The Thadingyut Festival is held on the full moon day of the seventh month of the Myanmar calendar, this year on 28 October. Also known as the Lighting Festival, countrywide celebrations encompass the days before and after, but the full moon signifies the end of Buddhist lent and commemorates the Buddha’s descent from heaven back to the mortal world. This is a very big deal; so, about two dozen of us met up at the Embassy and sallied forth to Shwedagon Pagoda, the epicenter of Thadinghut activities, to take it all in.

The CLO (Community Liaison Officer) had engaged a small but very nice bus, so we had a good perch from which to observe Yangon’s increasingly crowded streets. People were out and about everywhere, walking or packed into buses, taxis, and pickup trucks. The traffic, problematic on a normal day, eventually succumbed to gridlock; so we elected to disembark and walk the last few hundred meters.

When we arrived, our guide (who had previously enlightened us as to some of the history of Shwedagon and the Thadingyut Festival) procured our tickets. Then we took off our shoes, readied our cameras, and joined several thousand celebrants riding the escalators up to the Pagoda.

From this point, I find it somewhat daunting to conjure a suitable narrative (seriously, look at the photoz), so permit me to default to the highlight reel.

Lights & Photography - This was our second visit to Shwedagon, but the first at night. For those of us with decent, though not extravagant cameras, twilight is the perfect time of day. Naturally, the Pagoda is always spectacularly lit, but add to that the scores of paper lanterns and thousands of burning candles suffusing the sky with smoke and the effect becomes somewhat hallucinogenic.

People Wall-to-Wall - Smiling, contemplating, praying; making offerings of fruit, flowers, and light; picnicking, visiting, skylarking, taking selfies.

Old Gringo as Tourist Attraction - On several occasions I observed locals taking my picture on their cell phones, which is a thing here. As is folks wanting to have their photos taken with Westerners, as is mothers encouraging their babies to wave at the white guy. It was all very friendly and charming, so of course I was happy to oblige.

After about 90 minutes, we had circumnavigated the Pagoda, so we decided that it might be a good time to make for the egress. Good call, since there where thousands more people streaming in as we departed. Where they were going to stand, I have no clue, but the festivities continued unabated. As for the Americans, we took the bus back to the Embassy, where A.J. and I hailed a cab, making it home just as the full moon was rising. A special night indeed.

Onward.

Rodger

Messages From Myanmar #04

Messages From Myanmar #04

15 October 2015

Hello there… Rodger French here.

Thought I’d catch you up on the news from Myanmar. Because, really, who else will. (Actually, these folks will.)

Weather Report - Rumours declaring the end of the rainy season have proven premature, as it still rains nearly every day, and sometimes all day. Severe flooding and landslides have occurred in the northern states. But the nice lady who runs the gym downstairs says that we can look forward to cooler and drier climes in November, and I choose to believe her.

Election Update - National elections are scheduled for 08 November, and there is a collective holding of breath as we wait to see if the military regime is, in fact, willing to relinquish more power should the major opposition party (the NLD) poll as successfully as expected. Since the regime has a well-documented record of violently suppressing the popular will, a healthy skepticism is warranted.

Just this week, the national election commission floated a trial balloon suggesting that the election, still nearly a month away, be postponed due to the recent flooding. The resulting outrage was immediate and very loud, and the commission backed down. Good news, but the threat of electoral mischief is omnipresent. My hope is that the generals are not so obtusely arrogant as to recklessly endanger recent (not to mention very profitable) economic developments.

Job News - Congratz, kudos, and general huzzahs to A.J. on her recent promotion. Respect, yo!

Job News Too - My interview for a position at the Embassy went very well, I think. So now we… will… wait… some… more.

Health Bulletin - Two things any gringo must bear in mind while living in Southeast Asia: (1) The jungle is full of nasty, microscopic bugs that are out to do you in, and (2) The jungle always wins. I was lucky; my bug was of the 24-hour variety, but it took me almost five days to completely recover. ‘Twas gross. ‘Nuff said.

Music Review - Last week, I had the great pleasure of presenting a small concert at the American Center Yangon as part of the Embassy Speakers Program. Modestly titled “A Personal History of the Piano Accordion,” the program featured a short, but brief, history of the instrument (about which I know quite a bit), interspersed with tales of my personal music journey (about which I mostly remember). Also, seven musical selections from various stages of my “career.”

The audience for this epic was a couple of dozen local high schoolers. They were great kids; very polite and sincerely engaged. In addition, their English was good and they asked some pretty cool questions; e.g., “Can you play the drum with an accordion?” (The answer is yes. Imagine bongos on the bellows.)

But the best moment came when I introduced the Carlos Gardel tango “El día que me quieras” and translated the title into English: “The day that you wanted me.” Their response was a youthful collective sigh at the sheer romance of it all. It was a perfect response… a perfect moment.

Onward.

Rodger

Messages From Myanmar #03

Messages From Myanmar #03

18 September 2015

Hello there… Rodger French here.

Just checking in… it’s a strange transitional time here. The seasons are slowly changing from “monsoon” to “winter,” so we have more sunshine interspersed with occasional thunderstorms, and seemingly fewer days (like today) when the rain socks us in. And, of course, it’s always very warm and humid. I have been advised that there is temperate weather on the horizon, days when the locals reportedly break out scarves and light jackets. I remain skeptical.

In addition to seasonal change, A.J. and I are slowly making the transition from newly arrived gringos to actual resident gringos. Word is that shipments containing our stuff are scheduled to arrive soon(ish) by air and sea. That would be very nice. And, thanks to the housekeeping staff, the white mold that was taking over the maid’s quarters that we plan to use for storage has been vanquished by a winning combination of strong chemicals, a serious fan, and a big-ass dehumidifier. We are ready and confidence is high(ish).

As advertised, I have applied for a position in the Embassy that is pretty much the same job as I had in Buenos Aires. The bureaucracy is now doing its thing and, since I would need an upgrade in my security clearance (Official Nomenclature: “Super Secret Squirrel”) should they offer me the gig, it could be weeks, nay, months before I begin. Same song, different verse.

Meanwhile, I shop, cook, and perform wingman duties as needed. Also, every day, más o menos, I practice the wonderful Tango arrangements I received from Rodolfo Mederos, a quien extraño mucho. Being a project-oriented guy, I am considering reserving the Function Room downstairs and presenting un pequeño concierto for anyone who might be interested in esta música excelente. Could happen.

And that’s the scoop for now. Expect more soon, including photoz. Meanwhile, I think it might be worthwhile to spend some time listening to the rhythm of the rain.

Onward.

Rodger

Messages From Myanmar #02

Messages From Myanmar #02

08 September 2015

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  “Yangon Temples”

Hello there… Rodger French here.

It took, like, ten days, but the nasty jet lag has subsided, so A.J. and I are finally feeling like actual human residents of Yangon. In addition to getting our bearings and figuring out how best to get around (Pro Tip: Taxis), we’ve also managed our first tourist excursion. And it was a dandy; check out the photoz.

The Embassy has an in-house travel agency, so they set us up with a driver and tour guide for a six-hour, más o menos, tour of some major attractions. Our guide “Freddy” spoke fine English and did an excellent job. A convert to Christianity, he grew up as a Buddhist and so was able to help explain this ancient religion to the newly arrived gringos.

[Theological Sidebar - My knowledge of Theravada Buddhism, the form practiced by about 90% of Myanmar’s people, is rudimentary, to say the least; so I will resist theological elucidation in these postings. For my own part, as a long-time religious skeptic, I consider it my prerogative to gratefully accept those aspects (of any religion) that feel right to me and respectfully take a pass on those that do not.]

Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda Reclining Buddha - A most impressive example of a highly revered image. First completed in 1907 and renovated in 1965, this Buddha is 65 m (213 ft) long, 16 m (52 ft) high, and very expressively decorated. One of the most interesting features is thus described: “The soles of the feet contain 108 segments in red and gold colors that show images representing the 108 lakshanas or auspicious characteristics of the Buddha.”

Shwedagon Pagoda - Also known as the Golden Pagoda, this is Yangon’s most famous landmark and Myanmar’s most important religious site. First constructed over 2500 years ago (according to legend, and a matter of some debate), the pagoda has been enlarged and renovated many times, and numerous other structures have been added to the site.

Situated on Singuttara Hill (not far from our apartment, actually), Shwedagon Pagoda is 99 m (325 ft) in height, gold plated with the equivalent of 22,000 gold bars (301 tons), and has a spire encrusted with thousands of precious gems. It is a wondrous and opulent sight. We spent two hours circumnavigating it, pausing to admire multitudinous images of the Buddha, reflect on the days of our births, and consider the importance of the number eight in Buddhist teachings. It is an altogether magnificent place and we look forward to returning, particularly at sunset.

[Lunch Sidebar - The Thiripyitsaya Sky Bistro, located on the 20^th Floor of the Sakura Tower, offers affordable food and excellent vistas. From there we had our first look at the Yangon River and the Port of Yangon, which, like so much of this city, has recently experienced intense development.]

Bogyoke Aung San Market - Built by the British in 1926 (f.k.a. Scott’s Market), this enormous neo-colonial structure houses hundreds of shoppes selling antiques, jewelry, clothing and fabric, art, handicrafts, and souvenirs. It is also reputedly the best place in Yangon to find black market moneychangers. Many shoppes are located in extreme proximity, so the overall effect can be claustrophobic; but the hustle is not oppressive.

Sule Pagoda - Though not as impressive as Shwedagon, Sule Pagoda occupies a central place in Burmese life. Literally. The British used it as the starting point when they created the present street layout of Yangon. Sule also served as a meeting point for pro-democracy demonstrators in both 1988 and 2007 and became the scene of brutal crackdowns by the military government.

Bonus Tourist Points - On the way home, we made two brief stops for scouting purposes. First, The Strand Hotel, a surprisingly unostentatious 5-star joint built by the British in 1901 and originally designed to be “patronised by royalty, nobility and distinguished personages." (White people.) Nice gift shoppes.

The second stop was the Yangon Central Railway Station, a grandiosely funky place and terminus for the Yangon Circular Railway, an epic 3-hour/45.9 km (28.5 mi) journey with 39 stops. We’re giving it serious consideration.

Onward.

Rodger

Messages From Myanmar #01

Messages From Myanmar #01

28 August 2015

Hello there… Rodger French here.

I am pleased to report that A.J. and I are alive and/or well and now living in Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma). The trip over was long (22 hours in the air, 12.5 time zones) and uneventful, notwithstanding that I spent most of my birthday in pressurized flying tubes. But Anne cashed in some serious frequent flyer miles, so we flew the Dallas-Seoul leg in Bidness Class. Best birthday present ever.

[World Travelers Sidebar - Pensacola to Yangon jet lag is truly massive.]

We are ensconced in a furnished apartment in Tower 2 of the Shangri-La Residences, one of many new high-rises catering to the flood of foreigners engulfing Myanmar. Now that the military regime has loosened its grip somewhat, international sanctions have been lifted and business is booming. As a result, construction is spilling into the streets and traffic is increasingly heinous, so much so that we will likely forgo the purchase of a car, relying instead on taxis.

[Comestibles Sidebar - Thankfully, I have successfully scouted some places within walking distance where we can acquire provisions. This is essential; one should be able to walk to food.]

The Embassy, which is decidedly not within walking distance, has a similar design to the one in Ghana, so it feels very familiar. The check-in process is underway and, assuming the Burmese MFA (Ministry of Foreign Affairs) cooperates, we should have all our necessary documentation squared away soon. Más o menos. We think.

The same may hopefully be said for all our stuff. Once we are street legal, shipments can be released for delivery, a process that could take many weeks. Meanwhile, we are making do. Our place feels very much like a hotel, so much so in fact, that we don’t know exactly what we’re going to do with our possessions once they finally arrive. And the kitchen is quite small, more suited to a large boat. But we are comfortable and secure, so we’ll make it work.

[Connectivity Sidebar - This is the first posting where we have had Internet access the instant we walked through the door. Which is a bit unexpected and kind of impressive, actually.]

Apart from essential shopping, we haven’t yet begun to explore Yangon, although I can confirm that there are Buddhist temples everywhere, as well as some beautiful lakeside parks. As it is monsoon season, we have daily rains, often downpours, which occasion flooding in the streets and the running of sewage in drainage ditches. And the constant high humidity necessitates 24/7 operations of the air conditioners and dehumidifiers we are fortunate enough to have.

[Slimy Sidebar - Comfort aside; without fans, A/Cs, and dehumidifiers, some very nasty varieties of tropical spores and mold quickly assert their dominance. Not. Acceptable.]

Although we’ve been here less than a week, I am pleased to confirm that the Burmese with whom I have come in contact are, as expected, very polite people. (I’m working assiduously on my bowing technique.) And, thus far, I have been able to walk the streets without being regarded as an ambulatory ATM, for which I am most grateful. (Not the most insightful observation, granted; but it’s early yet.)

Myanmar is a very complicated country with a rich and complex history, much of it, not unlike our own, utterly appalling. (It seems to me that issues of inequality and religious xenophobia are particularly intractable.) But we are here at a historic moment. And, as we approach the elections in November, no one is able to predict with real certainty what will happen. Which is a bit discomfiting, but also kind of cool.

In any case, you may rely on this correspondent for periodic updates. Next time, perhaps, with photoz… jet lag permitting.

Onward.

Rodger

Stateside Memo

Stateside Memo

12 August 2015

Hello there... Rodger French here.

Assuming that the appropriate bureaucratic constellations align in a timely fashion, Anne and I will be departing these American shores in a week or so for Myanmar, aka Burma. As the kidz say, “Shit’s gettin’ real.”

But first, permit me to offer a few fully-half-baked observations on the state of affairs in the US of A from my perspective as an expat, patriot, and once-and-future resident.

1. The pandemic of junk food abuse in the United States continues unabated. Good times for us aficionados of exotic potato chips, bad news for public health. And our obsession with bacon has gone completely around the bend. Bacon ice cream? No. This madness must cease.

2. Basic cable television is basically boring; that is, when it’s not actively appalling. There are exceptions; for example, Jon Stewart’s “Daily Show” sayonara, featuring his brilliant soliloquy on “bullshit” and exit music by Springsteen. Also, “Castle” reruns. (No apologies; they remind us of Buenos Aires.)

3. Regarding the so-called “Confederate Flag,” or, more evolutionarily, the “Banner of Treason in Defense of Slavery,” the “Banner of Treason in Defense of White Supremacy,” and the “Banner of Treason in Defense of American Apartheid:” The mercifully few folks I’ve observed proudly flaunting their “Banner of Treason in Defense of Heritage” appeared to embody pretty much every white racist jackass stereotype. Honkies, please!

4. The United States has forfeited any conceivable prerogative to cast aspersions on any other nation’s electoral process (including Argentina and Burma, both with elections later this year). Indeed, achieving parity with the Italians seems less unlikely every day, now that Donald Trump has assumed the role of Silvio Berlusconi, albeit without the charm.

5. The U.S. Women’s National Soccer Team totally rocks. ‘Nuff said.

6. Gas prices in both Alabama and South Carolina have dipped as low as $2.15.9/gallon. Therefore, since he wrongly gets the blame when gas prices go up, I’d like to take a moment to say “Thanks, President Obama.”

7. Moment of Zen: After three blissful years of not owning a car, we have logged about 4,500 miles on a rental vehicle during home leave, often on seriously overcrowded highways unconducive to happy motoring. But one day, while driving on I-85N through NC, I slipped behind an 18-wheeler belonging to an automobile racing team and driven by a real pro, drafting for a considerable distance until he exited at a weigh station. Possibly the best driver with whom I’ve ever slipstreamed on our Dwight D. Eisenhower National System of Interstate and Defense Highways. (Thanks, Ike.)

Finally, since there is no such thing as too much bacon reiteration, the third in the ongoing series of my postings from exotic locales is available from Amazon.com at a ridiculously reasonable price:

Happy To Be Here - Vol. 3: Bulletins From Buenos Aires

This is a companion book to the first two volumes:

Happy To Be Here - Vol. 1: Greetings From Ghana

Happy To Be Here - Vol. 2: Postings From Pretoria

Collect the set. Coming soon: “Messages From Myanmar.”

All thanks to family and friends who generously accommodated us, thereby making our trip Stateside a rip-roaring success. We are deeply grateful and love you madly.

Hasta Birmania. Onward.

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #44

Bulletins From BA #44

18 junio 2015

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  “BA-Último”

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

Things have gotten pretty real with this whole moving business. Our swell apartment is now devoid of our furnishings, and 125 boxes packed with our stuff are… well, we don’t know exactly where, but they’re on their way… although we don’t know exactly when, to Myanmar (Burma). Best hope is they will catch up with us six to eight weeks after we arrive in Yangon (Rangoon). We do have transit insurance and that is some comfort, although it’s monsoon season and local storage facilities… we try not to think too much about it.

Meanwhile, we’re getting in our last days in Buenos Aires. This past Saturday, I presented "Un pequeño concierto de Tango" at Museo Anconetani del Acordeón and it came off surprisingly well. We had a small (pardon me, intimate) audience that filled the space very nicely. Only four gringos; the rest were Argentine amigos as well as several accordion players (and their children) invited by our host. It was a lovely evening. Downright cinematic, in fact.

The saddest thing for me this week has been saying adios to Rodolfo Mederos, my Tango teacher. It has been a singularly fortunate experience for me to study with a musician so knowledgeable, accomplished, and passionate. Rodolfo has been very supportive and complimentary about my playing and I can only begin to express what that means to me. Best of all, we’ve had a good time together. And, with the aid of translations by “Señor Google,” we should manage to stay in touch.

In addition to bidding farewell to our Argentine friends, Anne and I are sad to be leaving Buenos Aires, a city for which we have developed a genuine affection. Granted, our excellent living arrangements make it easier to romanticize the place; still, there is something about BsAs that seeps into your system. I doubt that we will ever again reside in such a large, colorful, and, for all its shortcomings, livable city.

[Metropolitan Sidebar - It seems inevitable that once in Yangon, we will again, of necessity, have to become automobile owners; preferably a vehicle with high clearance, the better to navigate flooded streets. After three years living gratefully unencumbered by a car, I find my enthusiasm for the prospect somewhat lacking.]

Finally, since no recap is complete without a list, here’s mine - what I will (Sí) and won’t (No) miss about living here. Just a few, just for fun:

Sí - The nearly constant breezes (literally “buenos aires”); 24/7 Tango TV; Torquato Tasso, the best tango listening room in town; amigos de USA y Argentina; our excellent landlord and building staff; dogs (everywhere); taxis (ditto); corner cafés (also, ditto); 2-for-1 kilos of Italian ice cream.

The Southern Cross, viewed from our balcony.

No - 30+ percent annual inflation; excruciating theatre seats; dog poop; wildcat job walkouts.

So then… assuming no repeat of the recent transportation strike, we will leave Buenos Aires late on Friday, 19 June, fly to Miami International Airport (Official Motto: “Where your expensive instrument might not get trashed”) and then on to DC (and VA/NC/KY/AL/GA) for two months of official consultations, visits with family/friends, and shopping forays for essentials not easily found on the other side of the world. Postings will be sporadic, but I plan to resume what passes for regular communication (presupposing a functioning Internet connection) once we get settled in Yangon.

[Publications Sidebar - Expect “Bulletins From BA” to appear in book form later this year. In the interim, stay tuned for “Messages From Myanmar.”]

Nuestros mejores deseos (our best wishes), mil abrazos (a thousand hugs) y ¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #43

Bulletins From BA #43

05 junio 2015

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  “Valparaiso y Más”

Extended Posting Alert

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

Those of us who have had the dubious privilege of military service are familiar with the appellation for one whose period of enlistment is almost up. S/he is a “short timer,” ergo “short.” At this writing, A.J. and I have 14 days and a WU (Wake-Up) before we leave Buenos Aires. Our apartment is littered with boxes, bags, and bubble wrap, with packout scheduled for next week. We are very short.

But, ever intrepid, we did manage to get in a final South American jaunt, this time to Chile. It was Anne’s last official business trip, onto which we cobbled a few extra days for tourist activities.

Valparaiso - Located in the north, Valpo is Chile’s largest port and was, until the advent of the Panama Canal, one of the busiest harbours in the world. The waterfront is still very active. In addition to humongous cargo ships, the Chilean Navy is headquartered there, as is Cuerpo de Voluntarios de los Botes Salvavidas, the volunteer coast guard. Like the National Sea Rescue Institute in South Africa, these folks donate their service to monitor thousands of kilometers of coastline. We wandered into their HQ and were immediately given the grand tour. I love port cities.

[Naval Serendipity Sidebar - Also in port, the Esmeralda (BE-43), a four-masted schooner and naval training ship. We first encountered her several years ago in Cape Town; a beautiful vessel, regrettably fouled by use as a floating torture chamber in the 1970s.]

In addition to being Chile’s major port, Valparaiso is a tourist mecca, with oodles of interesting shops and good restaurants and a decidedly artistic/bohemian/hippie vibe. Also, Valpo is Very. Steep. So steep that people rely on the numerous and affordable funiculars to manage the steepitude. One of these, the Ascensor Artillería, clambers up to the Museo Maritimo Nacional, where we whiled away a couple of hours basking in the historic greatness of the Armada de Chile, which apparently spent most of its history squabbling with Bolivia and Peru about access to the Pacific Ocean.

[Naval Serendipity Sidebar II - The coolest thing in the Museo was a display of one of the vehicles, designed and built by naval engineers, used in the rescue of “Los 33,” the men stranded underground in the 2010 Copiapó mining accident. It looks rather like a rocket.]

Santiago - We had less than 24 hours in the Chilean capital, so while A.J. did her bidness, I strolled around downtown, passing some time contemplating La Moneda, the palace that houses the offices of the president and site of the 1973 CIA-fomented coup that resulted in the overthrow of Salvador Allende and the systematic torture and deaths of thousands. Situated on a broad empty plaza with a shitload of security, it is an unsettling place.

[Related Rant Sidebar - It may well be that no one gives a damn anymore, but the fact that Henry Kissinger, aka “The Most Overrated Man in the World,” has yet to be frog-marched to The Hague for his role in bringing the iniquitous Pinochet regime to power in 1973 remains an injustice in the first degree.]

Nonetheless, there was joy to be had in Santiago, specifically lunch at Confiteria Torres, an old-school (1879) café, where I savored a President Barros Luco sandwich. Sort of like a Philly cheesesteak, only with real cheese. Esplendído.

La Serena - In Santiago, we hooked up with Marco, the local IRC Director, and our excellent travelling companion for the rest of the journey. We flew north to La Serena, which boasts a bunch of universities, dozens of churches, and no fewer than 12 beaches. It is situated adjacent to the town of Coquimbo and Anne gave presentations in both locales.

In my indispensible capacity as wingman, I basically just hung out, although I did make friends with a professor of mathematics who is also an avid musician. We had quite a nice discussion (¡En español!) about the relationship between la música y las matemáticas, including the intricacies of the accordion, specifically the Stradella 120-bass system. Music. Geek. Bliss.

Speaking of science, the area upland from La Serena, La Ruta del las Estrellas, is home to numerous seriously large telescopes. Chile, like Namibia, has some of the clearest skies in the world and astronomical tourism is thriving. For us, the closest and most accessible (and really, you can’t just wander in and take a peek) was the Mamalluca Observatory.

Developed specifically for touristas, Mamalluca houses a 16-inch optical telescope. Volunteer amateur astronomers, who are very knowledgeable, conduct tours in both español and Inglés. The English-speaking tours groups are much smaller, with more quality time to actually, you know, peer.

The moon was 70% full, so we couldn’t see all the Milky Way and other individual galaxies. But we did manage excellent views of Jupiter, Saturn (¡Sí!), and assorted star clusters and constellations, including my favorite, the Southern Cross. (Fun Fact: The star at the base of the Cross? Binary.) Now, if only they had a gift shop.

On our final day in Chile, having several hours before our flight, we repaired to the beach, where we happened upon a wake being held in honor of a recently deceased local fisherman. (It being a dignified sendoff, they naturally had an accordion player on hand.) Then, after lunch at one of the many excellent seaside restaurants, we taxied to the airport, bid our despedidas (farewells), y volvimos a Buenos Aires.

Where both the days, and we, grow shorter by the minute.

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #42

Bulletins From BA #42

21 mayo 2015

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  “Museo Anconetani”

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

With less than a month to go in Buenos Aires, a fact with which I’m still coming to terms, Anne and I have shifted into what may be insufficiently described as hyper-organized-chaos mode. Boxes and checklists litter the apartment, as we pack and simultaneously attempt to edit our possessions, an indubitably frustrating exercise. Granted, none of this should come as a shock; after all, technically, we’ve had months to prepare. Doesn’t matter. Burma awaits and the chaos will not be denied.

But we’re not gone just yet and Buenos Aires is certainly not quite finished with me. My weekly classes with Rodolfo Mederos have been routinely inspiring and I continue working con entusiasmo to absorb as much as possible from him in order to enhance whatever musicality I may possess. Maestro Mederos has also opined (twice, now) that I should record an album of tango duets with contrabass, a suggestion I am taking muy seriously.

[Music Calendar Sidebar - FWIW, some of you in the States will have an opportunity to appraise the results of all this exertion for yourselves this summer. Gigs are booked and more information will be forthcoming. Watch this space.]

Speaking of accordion-related stuff, I finally had the pleasure of visiting the Museo Anconetani del Acordeón (www.anconetani.net) in barrio Chacarita. The Anconetani family has been in the accordion business since 1896 and, although they no longer manufacture instruments, they continue to offer sales and repairs. Ricardo, buen amigo and most esteemed travel agent, set up an appointment to tour the museum and the shop next door. The tour was friendly and fascinating, and we ventured very deep into the weeds of accordion geekitude. Muy divertido.

As a result, it appears that I will have the honor of performing "Un pequeño concierto de Tango" at the museum one evening before our departure on 19 junio; un último proyecto musical in this extraordinarily musical city. It really is true, kidz: The more you practice, the luckier you get.

Meanwhile, A.J. has bidness in Chile (Valparaiso, Santiago y La Serena) next week and I get to come along for the ride. At long last. This will be my first visit to Chile, as well as the final trip of our three-year posting in Argentina. Una última aventura… before the chaos engulfs us utterly.

¡Adelante!

Rodger

Bulletins From BA #41

Bulletins From BA #41

12 abril 2015

¡Hola! there… Rodger French here.

So the word has been made official: Our next posting is, in fact, Burma (Myanmar), specifically the city of Rangoon (Yangon). Beginning in late August - exact date soon to be confirmed - we will begin a two-year posting. It’s a very exciting prospect, so I am told. Burma is a serious focus for the State Department and Anne’s job promises to be challenging and important. Plus, literally everyone we’ve spoken with who knows anything about the place has raved.

We’ve just begun our background reading in earnest, so here’s a few glittering generalities I’ve gleaned so far: (1) Burma is primarily Buddhist, but extraordinarily diverse culturally; (2) a complicated civil war is still being fought 60 years on; (3) there are three seasons: Hot and humid, hot and dry, and monsoon.

[Nomenclature Sidebar: There is some uncertainty concerning whether one can/should use the old colonial names (Burma/Rangoon) rather than the newer traditional names (Myanmar/Yangon). Said confusion is abetted by the fact that both DoS and the Burmese themselves freely mix the two. Me, I’m getting older and so choose to continue using the names I grew up with, as long as it doesn’t create any stress.]

I have mixed emotions about traipsing off to this exotic place on the other side of the world. I’m sure it will be a grand experience and all, but first we have to actually, you know, move. This will be our fifth packout in nine years and I am seriously grateful that we have no kids, no pets, and no car to deal with.

But the primary reason for my current, albeit temporary lack of enthusiasm is simply that I will miss living in Buenos Aires. In spite of a lamentably tenuous grasp of español, I have enjoyed Argentina, and Buenos Aires has somewhat infected me. I don’t harbor any pretentions about going native in just three years, but I have developed a deeper understanding of why porteños feel such a profound attachment to their city. And, por supuesto, there’s the music. What a wondrous circumstance for an accordionist.

[Privilege Check Sidebar - Obviously, being furnished a very nice apartment in a very nice neighborhood never hurts. Diplomats live an intriguing life and, in a civilized locale where no one bears you any particular animosity for being an “American,” being an expat can be a very nice state of affairs. We are most fortunate and ever appreciative of this.]

So… with two months left (we leave in June for home leave in the States before continuing onward to post), it’s time to suck it up, get out the multitudinous checklists and heaps of boxes, and begin to get after it. ProTip: It. Never. Gets. Easier.

Tourist Update - Just in case you were wondering, T & A, our buenas amigas from E.E.U.U., made it home safe and sound (and laden with wine and olive oil) after a three-week visit that took them from Buenos Aires to Mendoza, La Rioja, Iguazu Falls, and back. They were excellent guests as well as great tourists, and we thoroughly enjoyed their company. Our very nice apartment seems much emptier without them.

Until we fill it up with boxes in preparation for the movers.

¡Adelante!

Rodger